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SB-00002 for RV-10 published - rudder bottom hinge bracket

greghughespdx

Well Known Member
Advertiser
Van's has published SB-00002 for the RV-10, which describes the method for inspection and - if cracks in the installed part are found - replacement of the rudder bottom hinge bracket.

Hard impacts on the rudder stop (typically due to wind gusts on an unrestrained rudder when parked on the ground unattended) may result in cracks forming in a specific location of the bottom rudder hinge bracket. The service bulletin directs owners to inspect the bracket and, if cracks are observed, order a small kit of parts to replace the bracket with a replacement part and hardware of new design. If cracks are not present, owners may continue to inspect at least as frequently as each condition inspection. Replacement of the part is not required unless cracks are observed.

Of course, Van's always recommends installing a rudder gust lock to prevent gust-related issues when the aircraft is parked.

The kit needed to complete this service bulletin is available on the Van's Web store.
 
Caused by the internal style rudder limiter? That's why I'm keeping the Vans style on my 8. Some folks have done the internal stop style on their -7s and -8, but I think this is reason enough to stick with the external fuselage mounted stops. Wonder why Vans went with the internal style for the -10 in the first place when the external has been around and works so well?
 
I checked the bulletin linked above and, although rather informative, it doesn't show a diagram of the new design.

Can that be provided so we can compare the drawing to what we have to determine which design was shipped.

I am building my tail kit at this time.

Thanks.

Edit: I will check the item in the Vans store.
 
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I checked the bulletin linked above and, although rather informative, it doesn't show a diagram of the new design.

The bulletin actually does show both the new and old design parts. Figure 1 depicts the original bracket part while Fig 3 depicts the new version of the part. There are visual differences (specifically, the "ears" on the new part in the area of the bolt locations). The new parts have a "-1" suffix in the part number (which is our standard method of changing a part number to reflect a revised version). The bulletin also discusses the difference in hardware.

Also, per the bulletin, this applies to all RV-10 tail kits that were shipped from Van's on or before September 30, 2020.
 
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can happen

Caused by the internal style rudder limiter? That's why I'm keeping the Vans style on my 8. Some folks have done the internal stop style on their -7s and -8, but I think this is reason enough to stick with the external fuselage mounted stops. Wonder why Vans went with the internal style for the -10 in the first place when the external has been around and works so well?
Bad things can happen with the "external" rudder stop as well. Best solution as noted already by Dave and others is to use a good rudder lock.
 
Here’s a control lock solution that you will have to remember to put on but you won’t forget to take off.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=mauledriver&project=224&category=2223&log=200875&row=1

+1. Works well, impossible to forget to remove. I use the ‘seat belt method’ mentioned to keep the handle in place, while the other seat’s belt pulls the stick into the V in the tow bar and restrains the elevator and ailerons. No welding, I used hose clamps to hold the small tabs in place.
 
I checked the bulletin linked above and, although rather informative, it doesn't show a diagram of the new design.

Can that be provided so we can compare the drawing to what we have to determine which design was shipped.

I am building my tail kit at this time.

Thanks.

Edit: I will check the item in the Vans store.

It’s easy to see the difference. The new one has more bolts.

Greg, can you post the net weight increase? This is way aft, may require re-doing wt and balance?
 
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It’s easy to see the difference. The new one has more bolts.

Greg, can you post the net weight increase? This is way aft, may require re-doing wt and balance?

Negligible change - and no, it does not require one. Note that if a W&B change is required, it will always be included in the SB. We have an engineering standard and formula for determining that.

You are, of course, welcome to do a W&B at any time if you want to. :D

SIDEBAR:

Since the question so empennage/tail weight and balance came up, allow me to pontificate a bit - [edit:] albeit pontificating more generically and not specific to the RV-10. :)

Probably the best example of a W&B-type reassessment that people should do - but sometimes don't - is re-weighing/balancing the airplane after paint. Especially when you consider the relative empennage weight change associated with paint. It's a relatively light portion of the airplane with a large surface are for the paint to add weight.

Similarly important is elevator and rudder balancing post-paint. Counter-weighted, balanced control surfaces that have material added to them (again, relatively large areas of paint) when the counterbalance is supposed to provide a specifically matched/neutral balance, should be checked and re-balanced after the paint cures.

It still surprises me how often people have not done these things.

Okay, climbing down off this soapbox. ;)
 
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RV-10 elevator balance

Similarly important is elevator and rudder balancing post-paint. Counter-weighted, balanced control surfaces that have material added to them (again, relatively large areas of paint) when the counterbalance is supposed to provide a specifically matched/neutral balance, should be checked and re-balanced after the paint cures.

This is the RV-10 forum.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the RV-10 elevators are in fact not designed to be balanced - the weights as provided are to provide adequate flutter margin. That is why there is no balancing instructions in the build manual.

???
 
This is the RV-10 forum.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought the RV-10 elevators are in fact not designed to be balanced - the weights as provided are to provide adequate flutter margin. That is why there is no balancing instructions in the build manual.

???

I thought this was true as well. Can anyone confirm this?
 
Sorry, I made a very generic statement in a very specific forum - my bad.

Generally, what I was trying to say is, be sure to weigh your airplane after painting. Tail section paint can add a lot.

My mass-balancing statement was intended to be a much more general statement, no doubt confusing, and was probably a bit misplaced here in this location.
 
Rudder stop

I inspected my hinge bracket and found that I have a crack on the right side. I am not convinced that it is caused by the rudder banging into the stop. the service bulletin suggests the rudder stops might be bent and need deburring because of the banging. My rudder stops show only having minor contact with the rudder. There is still paint on the stop and I have never parked the plane outside without my rudder lock in place.
1518D532-F99F-48BD-81A4-FA8C33D639CF.jpg
 
I inspected my hinge bracket and found that I have a crack on the right side. I am not convinced that it is caused by the rudder banging into the stop. the service bulletin suggests the rudder stops might be bent and need deburring because of the banging. My rudder stops show only having minor contact with the rudder. There is still paint on the stop and I have never parked the plane outside without my rudder lock in place.
View attachment 4981

My situation is similar. I always use a rudder lock that secures to the left hand side of the bracket, yet I had a hairline crack on the right side of the bracket.
Mine looked similar to yours - very faint line. I broke off the powder coat in the area of the crack line (used an xacto blade). No obvious crack in the steel, and Magnaflux spot check revealed no crack. Painted over with enamel, will keep an eye on that location.
 
My situation is similar. I always use a rudder lock that secures to the left hand side of the bracket, yet I had a hairline crack on the right side of the bracket.
Mine looked similar to yours - very faint line. I broke off the powder coat in the area of the crack line (used an xacto blade). No obvious crack in the steel, and Magnaflux spot check revealed no crack. Painted over with enamel, will keep an eye on that location.

+1

The pic above looks like a very faint line and does not conclusively point to cracked metal. I would expect to see a bigger gap in the paint if the steel actually cracked. I would scrape off the paint for a closer examination of the steel itself.

Larry
 
Shameless plug for Van's support

I called up Van's to buy the updated VS-01010-1 and discovered it's about $42 for the one part, but if you buy the full service bulletin (SB-00002), it's only about $27, which includes the new stop and hardware as well.

Great products at a great price.
 
I called up Van's to buy the updated VS-01010-1 and discovered it's about $42 for the one part, but if you buy the full service bulletin (SB-00002), it's only about $27, which includes the new stop and hardware as well.

Great products at a great price.

And, while that might seem a little strange at first, note that the reason for this is that we typically price identified safety/service bulletin items at essentially our production cost, with maybe a very small amount for overheard (but never enough to cover the actual overhead costs, which consist (among other things) of the engineering and prototype/testing work plus the administrative costs associated with writing and issuing the service documentation).

greg
 
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