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How do you fix a leaking metal hangar roof?

Av8rRob

Well Known Member
Looking for some recommendations on how to repair a few leaks in the roof of a metal hangar. What do you guys recommend?
 
Call a professional. :)

In my case the foam seals at the eaves had slightly rotted and some of the 16 year screw sealing rings had rotted in the AZ sun. This let the screws loosen a bit. In another spot extra screws on the roof panel lower edges (above that called for in the plans) helped seal from westerly driving rain.

Interestingly the rubber seals on the screw heads apparently have changed and improved since my hangar was built.

They promise it's now fixed. :)
 
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R&R Screws/Seal

Actually having mine done today...Screws replaced with larger sealed caps and topcoat with a good sealant. The metal roof on wood beams will always be an issue due to expansion,moisture,ect. Hopefully, I can get another 5 years or so before it needs attention.
 
+1 for professional

Just had my roof done, the company cleaned all rust etc., primed, taped all screws and edges and then applied some form of polymer based coating. Supposed to be good for 20 years. Have had no leaks since.

Prior to that I had the foam insulation sprayed on the inside which stopped a lot of the leaks but still had some drips here and there.
Figs
 
seems like a foam on inside would be worse than a leak. traps water and doesn't allow it to evaporate. plain old roof patch tar on the offending / nails on the roof took care of all my leaks.
first draw a''map'' of the roof from inside the hangar showing the leaks. then when you are op top you get the right fasteners. pretty painless, easier than I had expected.
 
Roof

The county that I rent from just replaced roof on hangar they used tin of a building they took down the holes did not line up with the beams in my hangar so there was about a thousand holes you could see daylight the hangar is 60x60 I ask the head guy why it was not going to leak worse than before he said when he got through it wont leak I told him he was crazy.Well we have had some pretty good rain in the last 3 months and no leaks here is how he said he was going to fix holes SILICON and COOLSEAL guess it worked no leaks.
Bob
 
Be sure that the roof is actually leaking, and it's not just condensation building up on the underside and dripping down.
 
Thanks for the replys guys, for those who recommended a professional; how did you find them? I would definitely want a quote from a pro before I attempt it. Do i just start calling roofers?
 
Thanks for the replys guys, for those who recommended a professional; how did you find them? I would definitely want a quote from a pro before I attempt it. Do i just start calling roofers?

Check for local metal building assembly companies. The metal construction techniques of hangars probably won't be familiar to a home roofing company.
 
Howdy guys, I have a 42'x36' Metal skinned on Metal beams/Purlins) hangar that was built about 25 years ago.

While putting in a mezzanine/loft I took down the Fiberglass batting that was installed on the bottom of the purlins (Normally they erect the metal frame and the purlins and then put the batting on TOP of the purlins and then the metal skin on top of that.). What I noticed is some water staining and areas on the purlins where there was rust developed from the moisture being trapped from leaks I guess.
We want to do this before we have the ceiling spray foamed. We removed the batting because we want to regain the head height between the purlins.

So, what to do about fixing it before I have the ceiling spray foamed with insulation. We pulled down the batting insulation because we want the headroom between the purlins instead of the batting hanging down lower than the purlins.

It appears from looking at the screws that were used to screw the metal skin that they may have been overdriven or with normal heating/cooling contracting and expanding that the rubber washers looked to have squished and deteriorated and that this may be causing some of the leaking. I have not actually been up on top of the roof (But looking at the skins on the door and sides of the hanger, I bet the roof is the same or worse).

Some thoughts are:
1. A set of hangar owners at the airport with newer (by 10-15 years) had someone come in and unscrew every screw part way, shoot a blob of RTV under the rubber washer and then screw it back down).

2. Someone suggested to install the next largest size rubber washer metal self tapping screw in every hole (IE: Remove screw, put in new larger screw). I'm not sure that oversizing is needed because screwing into the metal the threads should be ok. Where I have seen that suggested is metal roof on wood where the holding power may be compromised into the wood.

3. Just replace the existing screws with new screws and try not to overdrive them and squish out the rubber (or neoprene someone will point out) washers.
(Is it possible to get up on the roof and walk/kneel around? I don't know the gauge of the metal but I know the purlins are spaced at 48" apart from each other.

I think I'll try number 3 first on some of the walls/door to see how that works and if the threads in the metal framing is going to be ok with a new screw of the same size and see what works better a DRIVER or a drill with adjustable clutch.

Any other thoughts? I will try to call a metal building installer and see what their thoughts are.

Thanks!
Mark
 

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Could see what other hangar owners have done in the area.

Other option is to have a spray on roofing coating. Something a contractor may have to do. Or you can try yourself, local hardware stores sell the sealant by the 5 gallon bucket.
 
Hate those leaks

Gotta love some roofing products. I like comp over sheeting. Just finished removing 18,500 feet metal and comping it.
Having installed, removed, fixed and screwed with tens of thousands of feet of metal roofing in my construction career I will say one thing. !! Well more than that. !!
Find out where it is leaking, map it out from below, then go up and find the leak. It's usually obvious where it is if you look closely.
I bought a 24 year old hanger a year ago. Move in, two months later the cowl of my 6A had water on it. Oops Hey this thing isn't water cooled.
Found only one screw had backed out about strong 1/16" causing that problem. It's amazing how much water one screw can let in.
I went over the whole roof and found a number of screws backing out or gasket problems. I also made and installed foam seals for under the ridge cap.
If you aren't feeling good about heights guess you'll have to trust somebody else. And then they are probably dumb as a box of rocks. I've hired hundreds of sub contractors in my 41 years of construction and I am amazed at the lack of understanding of the trade they are working in.
Good luck. If yo were in my area I would help ya. Art
 
Howdy guys, I have a 42'x36' Metal skinned on Metal beams/Purlins) hangar that was built about 25 years ago.

While putting in a mezzanine/loft I took down the Fiberglass batting that was installed on the bottom of the purlins (Normally they erect the metal frame and the purlins and then put the batting on TOP of the purlins and then the metal skin on top of that.). What I noticed is some water staining and areas on the purlins where there was rust developed from the moisture being trapped from leaks I guess.
We want to do this before we have the ceiling spray foamed. We removed the batting because we want to regain the head height between the purlins.

So, what to do about fixing it before I have the ceiling spray foamed with insulation. We pulled down the batting insulation because we want the headroom between the purlins instead of the batting hanging down lower than the purlins.

It appears from looking at the screws that were used to screw the metal skin that they may have been overdriven or with normal heating/cooling contracting and expanding that the rubber washers looked to have squished and deteriorated and that this may be causing some of the leaking. I have not actually been up on top of the roof (But looking at the skins on the door and sides of the hanger, I bet the roof is the same or worse).

Some thoughts are:
1. A set of hangar owners at the airport with newer (by 10-15 years) had someone come in and unscrew every screw part way, shoot a blob of RTV under the rubber washer and then screw it back down).

2. Someone suggested to install the next largest size rubber washer metal self tapping screw in every hole (IE: Remove screw, put in new larger screw). I'm not sure that oversizing is needed because screwing into the metal the threads should be ok. Where I have seen that suggested is metal roof on wood where the holding power may be compromised into the wood.

3. Just replace the existing screws with new screws and try not to overdrive them and squish out the rubber (or neoprene someone will point out) washers.
(Is it possible to get up on the roof and walk/kneel around? I don't know the gauge of the metal but I know the purlins are spaced at 48" apart from each other.

I think I'll try number 3 first on some of the walls/door to see how that works and if the threads in the metal framing is going to be ok with a new screw of the same size and see what works better a DRIVER or a drill with adjustable clutch.

Any other thoughts? I will try to call a metal building installer and see what their thoughts are.

Thanks!
Mark

If the screw threads show signs of corrosion, they are leakers.

My hangar, metal roof on top of metal purlins, was repaired by using method 2, which was the suggestion of the professional roofer. All screws replaced with the next larger size.

No leaks in over a year :D
 
If it’s just a couple of leaks, I’d go with silicone too. But make sure it is 100% silicone that comes in the clear tubes, not any of the colored ones.
 
Retighten screws

When I first bought my hangar, I had 17 leaks. At first I was just going to concentrate on the screws in those areas but when I got on the roof I could see many screws that were no longer tight enough. I retightened all that would snug up and replaced the few that would not with longer screws. I managed to stop all leaks this way.
I have since done this on the walls as I noticed water coming in certain places. It seemed to work on the walls as well.

Good luck
 
Thanks everyone!

Any comments on being up on the roof?
Will it hold a 250 lb guy?

Any tips? Board cut to sit in the valley? Carpet piece to slide around under your knees? Etc
 
Will it hold a 250 lb guy?
It likely was designed to hold a snow load, which will be greater than a 250lb guy. Walk on the rafters (where the screws are) and you should be fine.

Carpet piece to slide around under your knees? Etc
The last thing you want, ever, is to be sliding on a sloped roof.
 
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