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Static Port Rivet Nomenclature Differences

Meat

Active Member
Patron
Hi All,
I'm installing the static system in my RV-14. Page 10-22, Figure 1 directs using two SD-12-BSLF rivets for the static ports. The included but separate Static Air Kit uses two SD-42-BSLF rivets as static ports. Anyone know why the difference? Does it matter? What's the difference between the two rivets?

Also wondering if anyone is partially vs fully setting the rivet before driving out the mandrels? The plans make no mention of partially setting it but guys on other (but years older threads) are mentioning it. I know there are other options as well like Van's $19 Static Kit with threaded ports.

I appreciate everyone's time.

Cheers,
Scott
RV-14 #140702
 
I hate when someone answers a question with a different recommendation, but just this one time. I would suggest you get the Vans port with a 1/4" nut and tube barb. They don't cost much and have the same external profile (very important).

Partially to your question. I would set either rivet with a dab of pro seal under the head fully, then drive out the mandrel. Use a q-tip damp with iso alcohol get the uncured excess out of the perimeter. By example, I used about 90 (ok a hundred) swabs twirling, as they went, to make a nice filet around the rear plexiglas on my 7. This was the best method I found to work nicely with pro seal and yield an acceptable finished look. The cotton gives some volume to collect material, and the IPA wets the surface just enough to prevent smearing. Well, the only method as I quit looking.
 
How do I drive the mandrel out of the static rivet???

I'm installing the static system in my RV-14. Page 10-22, Figure 1 directs using two SD-12-BSLF rivets for the static ports. The included but separate Static Air Kit uses two SD-42-BSLF rivets as static ports. ...What's the difference between the two rivets?

Does anybody know the answer to this question? Just curious.

But the main reason for this post is how the heck do I "drive out" the rivet mandrels as called for in the separate air system instructions? I've tried pushing as hard as I can with a small punch from the outside in. I've done the same from the inside out. I half heartedly used a hammer to drive the mandrel out from the outside but there is no way I'm going to really hammer it home as it would dent the skins.

And no, I've never driven the mandrel out of a pulled rivet...just another rookie question from me.
 
Does anybody know the answer to this question? Just curious.

But the main reason for this post is how the heck do I "drive out" the rivet mandrels as called for in the separate air system instructions? I've tried pushing as hard as I can with a small punch from the outside in. I've done the same from the inside out. I half heartedly used a hammer to drive the mandrel out from the outside but there is no way I'm going to really hammer it home as it would dent the skins.

And no, I've never driven the mandrel out of a pulled rivet...just another rookie question from me.

Tap the mandrel out with a hammer and support the skin on the inside with a block of wood that has a hole drilled in it. Probably a two person job unless you have really long arms. ;)

When I did this job I used a 3/16' dia wide flange rivet on the inside to set the 1/8 rivet into. This gives a better way to attach the static tube rather than trying to glue it to the small parially set 1/8 rivet. Pic of test piece attached.
 

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Mandrel

Does anybody know the answer to this question? Just curious.

But the main reason for this post is how the heck do I "drive out" the rivet mandrels as called for in the separate air system instructions? I've tried pushing as hard as I can with a small punch from the outside in. I've done the same from the inside out. I half heartedly used a hammer to drive the mandrel out from the outside but there is no way I'm going to really hammer it home as it would dent the skins.

And no, I've never driven the mandrel out of a pulled rivet...just another rookie question from me.

Answer to the mandrel.
You need a helper inside with a bucking bar. Preferably with a hole. Helper holds the bar over the shop head while you tap the mandrel out.
 
Thanks guys! I don't have a bucking bar with a hole in it but I can try a block of wood. I think it's going to take a lot of force based on how hard I've pushed on it so far with the punch. I'm done for the day so I'll give it a shot tomorrow.
 
Block

Thanks guys! I don't have a bucking bar with a hole in it but I can try a block of wood. I think it's going to take a lot of force based on how hard I've pushed on it so far with the punch. I'm done for the day so I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

If you use a wood block, tape the bucking bar to the end to add some mass. Use the correct size pin punch so the hole doesn't get damaged.
 
I asked one of the guys from Vans about this at Oshkosh this year. He suggested tapping the mandrel most of the way out and putting a little lube of some sort on it. Then pull the rivet till it is tight. Then tap out the lubricated mandrel (with a bucking bar on the skin next to it if needed). Then make sure you clean the lubricant you used well before adding the tube and RTV.
 
I think the -12 must be a typo. I just looked in the Stanley catalog and there is no listing for an SD-12-BSLF rivet. The listings for this style start at SD-41-BSLF.

Regards,
Rob
N706DR
RV-7A
 
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