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Yet another Gust Lock

Bill.Peyton

Well Known Member
Unhappy with what I had seen thus far, I decided to try my hand at a simple Rudder/Airleron/Elevator all in one gust lock. I built this completely from Lowes Aviation Dept hardware.
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To install the assembly, both pins are removed and the assembly pivots to allow the aft end to be inserted in the pin protuding from the forward spar cover. The pin that extends from the front spar cover uses the existing nut plate, and does not require any additional holes. The assembly is then pushed downward and pinned inplace, which applies pressure to the pedals and holds it in place. The small arm traps the stick from side to side and fore and aft motion. The spacing of the rudder pedal side is such that it prevents side to side motion.
 
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Very nice. I love good engineering. Would you mind offering up your parts list and dimensions? Well done.
 
I still haven't gotten around to putting a list together. It's really very straight forward. I promise I will get a PL together soon.
 
Looking for a decent method for locking the rudders on a 7A, and this looks pretty good...do you have a parts list?

I've done one and anybody can count the parts - 3 T's and 6 90 degree L's. You need about 4 feet of pvc pipe. It works well, but don't glue it all together. If you can dismantle it into two pieces, it's much easier to store. Now paint on the other hand........;)
John
PS: I also have a modified tow bar. The advantage to the tow bar is that you will always remember to bring it, because it does TWO things for you.
 
Bill,

I like you approach. I did something very similar. I used a Velcro strip screwed to the pvc to hold the stick.

How do you find the end against the seat stays in place? I created a fitting similar to the brake pedals the sits on the top corner of the seat pan. I did have it pop off once. I was hesitant to put in a screw or bolt to hold it in place.

bob
 
Thanks for posting this.

I bought the (worthless) AirGizmo rudder lock at OSH 13. I then looked at the other (incredibly expensive) rudder/stick lock options at OSH 14, and decided it wasn't worth the money and hassle.

Still, my rudder gets banged around in the wind whenever we travel. This is an ongoing issue that I need to resolve. Your solution appears to be the best, yet!
 
As you can see, I posted this a long while back. I've used it everywhere and never had it fail on me. Bob, the way I have it anchored is a screw that penetrates the upper front brace has a small spacer and a dome nut. The nut and spacer protrude about 1/2" into the rear of the brace through a hole drilled in the end cap. The combination of this and the over-centering pivot put enough pressure on the rudder pedals to hold this in place. There is enough give in the PVC itself to not make this so rigid as to prevent a little energy absorption. The pieces used at the rudder pedal end are off the shelf half-pipe end clamp brackets. Everything is available at Lowes.
 
As you can see, I posted this a long while back. I've used it everywhere and never had it fail on me. Bob, the way I have it anchored is a screw that penetrates the upper front brace has a small spacer and a dome nut. The nut and spacer protrude about 1/2" into the rear of the brace through a hole drilled in the end cap. The combination of this and the over-centering pivot put enough pressure on the rudder pedals to hold this in place. There is enough give in the PVC itself to not make this so rigid as to prevent a little energy absorption. The pieces used at the rudder pedal end are off the shelf half-pipe end clamp brackets. Everything is available at Lowes.

BIll,

Do you have any photos?

Thanks,

Bob
 
I followed Bill's lead and built it from the photos he posted. It's a wonderful, simple, inexpensive design that has worked perfectly. Thanks Bill! Here are a few details I noticed:

You can install/remove it fairly easily while in the aircraft and make a quick transition from gust lock locking the rudder to your feet locking the rudder or vice versa (helpful in Hood River, OR with gusts 40 kts) :)

If you're parked on an incline and the plane starts to roll from your moving around, the gust lock will try and prevent you from putting your feet on the pedals to stop the roll :eek: Ask me how I know! You can get to the brakes, but you might soil your shorts in the 10 seconds it takes to get your feet in position over the gust lock :eek:

Once removed, the lock is a bit bulky and awkward. I painted mine red similar to Bill's and I now have some red paint on my interior, overhead console, etc. I usually place it in the rear foot wells if nobody is in back. If someone is in back, I ask them to place it in the baggage area and retrieve it for me if arrival conditions are windy.

It really is a great design that probably cost less then $10 when it was all said and done.
 
David,
I have been parked at 4S2 for a week a couple of times. The wind is brutal.
The first one I made went on the pilots side. The current one goes on the copilots side. I was concerned about not being able to hold the brakes. I painted it red so I could see that it was hooked up before I started the engine!
Bob, I'll take some today when I go to the hangar.
 
... I bought the () AirGizmo rudder lock at OSH 13 ...
At the risk of a bit of thread drift, as a matter of curiosity, why didn't the AirGizmo locks work out? I have no experience with them, nor do I know anyone who does, but just looking at the pics, they seem to be a reasonable approach. Seems like locking at the control surface might be more effective than locking at the controls?
 
I ordered several of those external gust locks, including the air gizmo. I never could get them to work reliably and I was always uncomfortable that they would not damage a skin or the paint. The other issue, is if you forget you put them on and then get in and hit the stick or move it you have just ruined your day.
 
At the risk of a bit of thread drift, as a matter of curiosity, why didn't the AirGizmo locks work out? I have no experience with them, nor do I know anyone who does, but just looking at the pics, they seem to be a reasonable approach. Seems like locking at the control surface might be more effective than locking at the controls?

I don't know the issues with the AirGizmo product. However, one of the principles who is building a RV-10 stopped by mine and noticed that I had one of their products. He asked that I stopped by their booth to allow them to upgrade the clasp mechanism. If he told me the reason, I don't recall.

bob
 
The clasp was the other issue with the Air Gizmo. Never could get it tight or secure. It would always loosen up with a little movement
 
FWIW, I have use the Air Gizmos on the elevator and ailerons for 4 years. It takes a little tweaking and getting used to how they work but they work well for me on the 10. I worry a little about the paint too. I try to give them a quick wipe to prevent FOD scratches. I use a PVC U shape set up for the rudder.
 
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