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HOW TO CHARGE BATTERY WITHOUT REMOVAL

avi8tor50

Well Known Member
Hi All

Wondering if anyone has a safe technique for charging the ODYSSEY battery that is attached to the firewall without removing it.
My battery is attached to the firewall per the VANS plans on the upper RIGHT side. It is a PITA to remove the battery. I have been hesitant to charge the battery while it is still in place because the charging cable would be so close to the firewall and other metal structures that could cause a short if the cable got loose and touched a surrounding structure. Have thought about wrapping the metal end of the charging cable that attaches to the (+) pole with electrical tape to insulate it but it could still be a disaster if it got loose and contacted a metal structure.
Would welcome any suggestions.
 
Here's one way: http://www.rv7blog.com/2015/06/21/ground-power-plug/

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If you get the Optimate charger as recommended, it comes with a 2 ring terminal weatherproof other end lead. We have that in our 7 and it works well. Just note - if you have P-Mags, not sure about other EI, do not turn them on with an external charge source plugged in.
 
What I do. I run a pigtail to a ~20amp breaker on the panel. The pigtail connects to a real power supply (not a battery charger). The result is a way to run the panel without fear of running avionics on the trash from a battery charger.

You can set the output voltage of the power supply to match whatever type battery you are running. Here is one of many examples:
https://www.dxengineering.com/parts...MImvbciavS6wIVDtbACh3R0gBFEAQYASABEgKErfD_BwE

As with all such charging processes, I would never leave any charging device connected to a battery unattended. For these batteries you can walk away from a fully charged battery for months and still have enough juice to crank the engine. Use of this power supply should be view more as a process to not drain a battery during hangar flying. But it will also charge a battery, just like your alternator.

I’ve used Odyssey batteries (all PC-625s) in my RVs for almost 20 years and have never used a “trickle” or “battery minder” charger. The only battery that died was from my own hand - left one of the Masters on. As with all such abused batteries, it was replaced.

Carl
 
Batteries

Carl,
You seem to be having good luck with the Odyssey batteries compared to others on here. I wonder if there are a slew of counterfeit batteries out there? Can you tell me where you buy your batteries?
 
Carl,
You seem to be having good luck with the Odyssey batteries compared to others on here. I wonder if there are a slew of counterfeit batteries out there? Can you tell me where you buy your batteries?

Got them all from Battery Mart. Note - I only use PC-625 batteries. I used two in each RV, one battery is replaced every three years so no battery is over six years old - this gives me so assurance on battery reserve capacity. The pulled batteries go on to a second life in lawn tractors and such. I prefer the 625 over the 680 as it is a little lighter, has a little more CCA and Amp-hr ratings, and for me the form factor is better to work with.

Carl
 
I can get charging cables thru the oil door and clamped on the battery terminals. I put a piece of gorilla duct tape on the firewall closest to the terminal as an insulator in case the + clamp gets too close.
 
My Odyssey battery charger came with two alligator clips on a short lead to a inline plug already on the line to the charger. I took that short lead ( about a foot), cut the Alligator clips off and pressed on ring lugs. Attached the lugs to the battery paying attention to polarity and I secured the plug at the oil door. I used a Adel clamp attached to the motor mount to secure the polarized plug. Very easy to plug in through the oil door. So far the only time that battery needs a charge is when I’m fooling with electrical accessories in the hangar and run the battery down.
 
I prefer the 625 over the 680 as it is a little lighter, has a little more CCA and Amp-hr ratings, and for me the form factor is better to work with.

For some reason that I don't remember I switched from a PC625 to the 680 several batteries ago. Your post prompted me to look up the specs and now I'm wondering, why did I do that? Looking at it now, all the specs seem better for the 625, and it's two pounds lighter! What's the tradeoff? There has to be a catch.
 
I have a 12v power accessory outlet under the panel that is wired directly to the battery via a 10a inline blade fuse located near the battery. Not only can the outlet be used for charging devices that use a power plug without the master being on but I can also charge the battery through it. My Battery Tender came with a 12v power plug adapter. I don't routinely charge the battery but have done so a couple of times after testing avionics on the ground.
 
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The 10-year-old PC-680 in my -6 has lived on a trickle charger for the 6 years i've had a hangar with power. The four years in an unpowered hangar took some practise to figure out how to start the plane in winter without drawing the battery down to zero... But when it's always fully charged it's not an issue.

(now I want to go look at the PC-625 and see why I have a PC-680...)
 
It brings a quick disconnect where you have a pigtail with clamps and another one with two eyelets to permanently attach to the battery. When you need to use it as a regulated power supply to work on avionics or for any other reason, you just click it from any of the other charger functions ( normal, cold battery, recondition) to SUPPLY and you're protected.

 
Here's what I did. 10A spade fuse close to the battery, #10 wire to the aux power socket, always live. Doubles as an auxiliary 12v outlet for USB chargers etc. Shown here with the Battery Tender Junior and plug-in adapter I made for the purpose.
 

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I like these 2-pin SAE outlets on the bottom of the fuselage or in the baggage bulkhead, as applicable. I usually change the far end into ring terminals for the battery posts but they can also be used as a splice to the charge cable that ships with the charger....

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Since I mount them either exterior or an easy to reach location they are very handy.
 
I have a 12v power accessory outlet under the panel that is wired directly to the battery via a 10a inline blade fuse located near the battery. Not only can the outlet be used for charging devices that use a power plug without the master being on but I can also charge the battery through it. My Battery Tender came with a 12v power plug adapter. I don't routinely charge the battery but have done so a couple of times after testing avionics on the ground.

I have the same accessory outlet under the panel. (AKA: Cigarette Lighter Jack)

IF I ever need a battery boost, that is how I do it. Yes it takes some time using an inexpensive Harbor Freight trickle charger but typically over night is all I have needed when the battery is still good and serviceable.
 
What I did

I use a Shumacher tender for my RV-4 and about everything else 12v I own. The little pigtail that comes with it can be bought separately for hardwiring to whatever you need. On my -4, I direct wired it to the battery and routed it through the firewall pass-through and It is secured via tiewrap to my oil fill tube. It has a nice little cap to seal it when not in use. No need for canopy to be open or any additional external porting. Just open the oil door and plug it in.
 
Similar to above, I've been using a Battery Tender Plus. I discovered them for my motorcycle when I moved from California to Michigan and the battery lost charge over the winter. My RV-6A has dual PC-680 batteries and is always connected when I leave the hangar. Battery Tender comes with both clip and ring pigtails, so I used the ring pigtails and made a little bracket on the baffle that positions the plug near my oil door. Sorry that the photo is a bit fuzzy.
 

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