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Simple, cheap and effective control locks.

pierre smith

Well Known Member
Since the thread on rudder locks had a lot of action, I decided to show my aileron and elevator locks....cheap, simple, quick-to-make and effective.

A piece of .025 aluminum and a couple of hardware store bolts and a piece of rubber tubing: The aileron lock:
aileronlock1.jpg


Because of the taper and the smooth paint, I needed to prevent the lock from sliding off the aileron/wingtip junction, so I added a piece of .025 with a hook on the forward end that goes around the aileron attach bracket:
aileronlock2.jpg


The elevator lock is similar:

elevatorlock1.jpg


Just a piece of .025 and rubber tubing that is a larger diameter than the bolt heads so they don't scratch the paint:

elevatorlock2.jpg


They can all be made in under a half an hour,

Best,
 
Those look great. Only downside I can think of is forgetting them before moving. Perhaps an attachment point for a Remove Before Flight flag would help visibility?
 
Well, between the preflight..

I always use an old, easily memorized checklist....CIGARTIP

Controls...free and correct.
Instruments..alt set ,trim etc
Gas..correct tank..fuel pump...quantity
Altimeter set
Runup...mags..oil pressure, etc

Trim...set for takeoff..(very important in the -10)
Interior...doors , belts fastened
Prop...pitch set forward for takeoff.

I suppose they could still be accidentally left on so add a red streamer if you need to,

Best,
 
While I agree with the idea of using a red streamer/ribbon, when you do a walk around as part of the pre-flight, you should always move each control surface.

You do do a pre-flight walk around dont you??????
 
Yep. It was just a critical component that a nice visual reminder would be helpful. Just suggesting it as if it DID get overlooked, it's not as easy to remove as a lock inside the cabin. I love the low provile and simplicity, if it was me, I would likely add a flag. That is most likely because I will hanger most of the time and wont use them in a hanger, but when traveling I would. So it wouldn't be something that was ALWAYS removed. Each to their own I suppose and easy enough to add to this great idea. Thanks Pierre.
 
Simple, cheap and effective

The best rudder control lock costs less than two bucks and you can store in almost no space. It works in everything but the -10 can be put on in 15 seconds, and you can't miss it when getting in the aircraft.

For the aileron and elevators, the pilots seat belt around the stick and pulled back all the way. If you can take off with these still on, perhaps you need to change your pre-flight.

For the rudder, a bungee cord, about 2' long for the 2 place ships. Hook it onto the rudder cable on one side, streach across the seat(s) to the other cable. The right length pulls the cables together and fixes the rudder. Once again, if you miss it getting into the aircraft, you should not be flying! :)

Bruce Patton
RV-6A 596S
 
How many

Pierre -

Do you have one for each side, for the ailerons and elevators, or is one each for the ailerons and elevators sufficient?
 
Mr. Patton

Did you once fly a Learjet? Back in the day, we locked our ailerons and elevators with - - you guessed it. The seat belt.

Bill
 
Here are a few shots of a simple and elegant lock that I saw at the Homecoming a couple years ago.

The owner was kind enough to let me take the unit off, so I could get better photos--------Unfortunately, I do not remember his name, to give proper credit where it is due.

DSC04168.jpg


DSC04169.jpg


DSC04166.jpg


DSC04167.jpg
 
My elevator lock is similar to the one Mike shows, but is a single piece and adjustable. Here's a photo of it in development:





The unit slides on the front side of the elevator. Thumbscrews allow me to tighten it down and the black bar on the left (at 45 degrees) slips down between the elevator and HS, keeping the unit from sliding off. The black stuff is plastidip to keep from scratching the paint. Once tightened down, the elevator is really locked in place so only one unit is needed.

Since I've given up on photos that have disappeared, if anyone ends up interested in this, email or PM me and I will send you a PDF with drawing and photos (updated 1/20).

greg
 
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Nice timing on this thread Pierre...was planning to figure out control locks this weekend. I really like your approach and I think I have all the needed material on hand...:cool:
 
No.

I don't like the belt around the stick because you'll have full "up" elevator that the wind can get under and a sideways wind can still move the stick left-right.

The best control lock comes from the Air Tractor factory:

Airtractorlock.jpg


BTW, this is NOT my Air Tractor.

A pin fits into a hole on the bracket that's welded to the stick. You simply lift it up and it swings back under the dash by a spring.

Yes, I only have one control lock on the ailerons and elevator of the -10.

Best,
 
control lock for rudder?

Great suggestions for DIY control locks for the elevator and ailerons !

Do you guys recomend the same for about the rudder?
 
Glen,

For the rudder, I simply drilled a hole in the horn (near the rudder tailwheel link) and a hole in the stop on either side, and insert two pieces of thick wire (one on each side) bent into an upside-down U shape (this was when my airplane was a -9A). I saw this method here on VAF years ago and don't remember who was the original poster. Sorry, I don't have a photo of this handy.

greg
 
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I don't like the belt around the stick because you'll have full "up" elevator that the wind can get under and a sideways wind can still move the stick left-right.

The best control lock comes from the Air Tractor factory:

Airtractorlock.jpg


BTW, this is NOT my Air Tractor.

A pin fits into a hole on the bracket that's welded to the stick. You simply lift it up and it swings back under the dash by a spring.

Yes, I only have one control lock on the ailerons and elevator of the -10.

Best,

This is the type of lock I use on my RV-6. I have a photo but can't find it--the lock is made from 1/8" stainless welding rod that fits into two holes in the lower flange of the panel. The lock is attached to the stick with a length of safety wire ( I used a short bungee for a few years). Of course no lock is needed for the rudder on the tail draggers.
 
This is the type of lock I use on my RV-6. I have a photo but can't find it--the lock is made from 1/8" stainless welding rod that fits into two holes in the lower flange of the panel. The lock is attached to the stick with a length of safety wire ( I used a short bungee for a few years). Of course no lock is needed for the rudder on the tail draggers.

....as long as the tailwheel steering pin is engaged!
 
new and improved....

My plane 'came with' the Pierre-style hose pinch type locks. After I noticed they were leaving some black marks, I added a larger diameter clear water hose over the black fuel hose. They originally used bungee shock cord, but as that stretched, they would walk off the taper, so it seemed a big zip-tie worked as well, and was slim enough to slide between the elevator and H.stab as well!
BTW, my seat belts won't go around the stick in my -9a?....unless the buckle is right on the metal, (which I figured would chip the paint) plus I didn't like the full up elevator either, as that was the directon of the prevailing wind at the time.
As for pre-flight, I did flag them, but also thought that I should have a checklist item that says, ' ensure you have all 7 locks & plugs in the flight bag prior to flight'.....so I didn't really number each, just know that If I haven't pulled 7 things, I"ve missed one, or it's laying on the ground or in the snow!:)
 
Seems like there are two approaches

One controls movement at the stick or in the cabin, and the other controls movement at the control surface. I strongly prefer the second method. Controls in the cabin allow the wind to "work" all the joints and components of the control system all the way to the stick or rudder pedals. Over time, this just adds unnecessary wear to all these parts.

I hate sloppy controls:eek:..
 
I always use an old, easily memorized checklist....CIGARTIP

Controls...free and correct.
Instruments..alt set ,trim etc
Gas..correct tank..fuel pump...quantity
Altimeter set
Runup...mags..oil pressure, etc

Trim...set for takeoff..(very important in the -10)
Interior...doors , belts fastened
Prop...pitch set forward for takeoff.

I suppose they could still be accidentally left on so add a red streamer if you need to,

Best,

I used this for years as well, until one day when I had a close call with a NORDO aircraft turning short final as I was about to take the runway. After that, I modified my routine slightly. Now after runup I check and verbalize, "Runway clear, final clear, controls free and clear" then take the runway. End result is the same - just make sure at some point "controls free and clear" enters the equation.
 
The -10 is too high.

Great suggestions for DIY control locks for the elevator and ailerons !

Do you guys recomend the same for about the rudder?

Yes, in all but the -10...it's too tall to reach. I use a T made of PVC that locks against the pedals in the cockpit. I'd really rather have a lock on top of the fin/rudder but it takes a small two-step stool to reach.

Best,
 
Yes, in all but the -10...it's too tall to reach. I use a T made of PVC that locks against the pedals in the cockpit. I'd really rather have a lock on top of the fin/rudder but it takes a small two-step stool to reach.

Best,

Why not have an extended piece like what you used to connect the lock to the aileron attack bracket that can serve as a sort of handle to lift it high enough?
 
I am experimenting with PVC pipes. This locks pedals and stick but elevators are fully deflected. Is it a good idea?


rudderlockexperiment.jpg



When I left aircraft unattended for two days in TN, I used zip ties to secure the fitting to the stick just in case.
 
Better neutral

Hey Vlad,

Looks good. How about if you hing the other half of that PCV pipe you have on the stick so that it swings around the whole stick then secures with a wing-nut? That way you could shorten the pipe from the rudder pedals to the stick and get the elevators in the neutral position - and you won't need the zip ties.

Something like this? - Course then you'd need something similar on the rudder pedals...

gustlock.jpg
 
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Won't quite work.

Hey Vlad,

Looks good. How about if you hing the other half of that PCV pipe you have on the stick so that it swings around the whole stick then secures with a wing-nut? That way you could shorten the pipe from the rudder pedals to the stick and get the elevators in the neutral position - and you won't need the zip ties.

Something like this? - Course then you'd need something similar on the rudder pedals...

Without the stick being in the full back position, nothing would be pushing on the rudder peddles. The ruder could flop around.

Kent
 
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I'd think that a major design criterion for a control lock would be something that prevents you from attempting to fly with it engaged. I'd put this as mandatory.

Vlad's photo shows one such lock, provided it is installed at the pilot's seat.

Dave
 
Correct

Yeah - that's why I said you'd have to do something similar to the rudder pedal(s). For every day use it might be too inconvenient, but might be acceptable for periodic use.

I just don't like the full up elevators....
 
Yes...

I'd think that a major design criterion for a control lock would be something that prevents you from attempting to fly with it engaged. I'd put this as mandatory.

Vlad's photo shows one such lock, provided it is installed at the pilot's seat.

Dave

I like having the locking device in the cockpit. It would be had to miss removing it before flight.

I don't think placing it in the PIC position would matter. With the stick full back I don't think you would miss that something was not right when you tried to sit down in your seat. :eek:

Kent
 
Thanks for the compliment Kent.

When I did the initial fabrication, I adjusted the pole (from stick to pedals) such that all control surfaces were in trail.... Kinda.

OK, so I'll admit a DUH moment. I did this initial fabrication and took that snapshot I posted the other day. Overnight I realized I didn't have the rudder cables hooked to the rudder itself. The cable ends were jambed in the cleco's holding the rudder stops at the tailcone (because I cranked down on the rudder pedals). No biggie. Just had to hook the cables up, remeasure and recut the tube, and redrill one bolt hole. And then decide whether to actually tell anybody. :D
 
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Or a stout bungee

Kent - or use something like Vlad has with a shortened stick arm and a stout bungee cord between the rudder pedals and the stick to hold everything together...
 
Kent - or use something like Vlad has with a shortened stick arm and a stout bungee cord between the rudder pedals and the stick to hold everything together...
Can you elaborate some on your comment? I am not seeing where having the bungee stretched between the rudder pedals and the stick is going to lock the controls. There needs to be something locking the stick to some "immovable" object within the cockpit in order for the stick, and subsequently the control surfaces (i.e. aileron and elevator), to be locked down.
 
Hmmmm....

Kent - or use something like Vlad has with a shortened stick arm and a stout bungee cord between the rudder pedals and the stick to hold everything together...

Well maybe not the peddles (they would just pull back leaving slack in the rudder cable), but you could hook to the bar that the peddles pivot on.

This is not going to be pulled out of place, but that is a long reach back behind the panel.

Maybe attach some rope to it that hangs just behind the panel so that you could get to it easily.

Kent
 
Look at Vlad's device

Steve,

The bungee cord solution I suggested would require a device like Vlad has fabricated.

T.
 
I was at SERFI on the weekend and the guy in a 6A parked next to me tied a pair of sneakers on the rudder to keep the rudder away from the elevator, It worked! Any port in a storm. :)
 
If Pierre is still active here, any chance you could repost the pictures on another server, maybe Imgur.com so more RV'ers can benefit from this design?
 
If Pierre is still active here, any chance you could repost the pictures on another server, maybe Imgur.com so more RV'ers can benefit from this design?

Here is what I built from Pierre's original photos. (WARNING: this link won't last more than a couple months)

IMG_8118.JPG
 
If Pierre is still active here, any chance you could repost the pictures on another server, maybe Imgur.com so more RV'ers can benefit from this design?
You can also make one out of some aluminum like I did many years ago. I know of one person that used reinforced schedule 80 PVC.

They follow the design used in the Diamond DA-40 gust lock system and works well. The best part is that it is impossible to take off with the gust lock system installed. You can't even get in the airplane.

a66c.jpg


338e.jpg


80f4.jpg


9b21.jpg


:cool:
 
You can also make one out of some aluminum like I did many years ago. I know of one person that used reinforced schedule 80 PVC.

They follow the design used in the Diamond DA-40 gust lock system and works well. The best part is that it is impossible to take off with the gust lock system installed. You can't even get in the airplane.

:cool:

Gracias. I built one like that but the problem for me in the RV-8 was you can't remove that type without getting in the plane (or hanging headfirst on your stomach over the side :D ) so once you removed it now you had to climb out to store it away then climb back in. I'm not 20 years old anymore and the hardest part of flying my plane is getting in it ! :):D:):p
 
Here is what I built from Pierre's original photos.

Thanks. I got the top of the rudder picture and the yellow one is the aileron, so is the middle black picture the elevator trim tab?

I always have mine hangared but when I fly places for the day I'd like to take something that doesn't weigh a lot or use up a lot of baggage space.

I'm worried those small sizes might dent the aluminum, have you had anything dented with higher winds?
 
The rudder lock is made from 1/4” steel and the pin from 0.063” steel hinge pin. The aluminium plate is to prevent the legs spreading under load. I have another lock for the other side to spread the load to both rudder stops although I just use one for short term parking.
The elevator/aileron lock is made from 0.118” steel hinge pin which is inserted into holes in the panel flange. The flange holes are small which stops the lock falling to the bottom of the stick. Mine is slightly spring loaded pushing up against the bottom of the securely fixed stick grip. The seat belt is pulled up tight around the stick.
Both these locks are very secure.

Fin 9A
 

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The rudder lock is made from 1/4” steel and the pin from 0.063” steel hinge pin. I have another one for the other side to spread the load to both rudder stops although I just use one for short term parking.
The elevator/aileron lock is made from 0.118” steel hinge pin which is inserted into holes in the panel flange. The seat belt is pulled up tight around the stick.

I have the same pin for the rudder stop but only on one side and it's thinner wire. Don't have the retainer on the bottom but it has never come out once it's in unless I pull it out.
 
RV-10 Rudder Lock

The picture(s) attached show our approach. This plate has three hoses through the plate, the larger holes are sized so that our tow bar handle can be used to pull the lock into place. Likewise, the tab coming off the bottom fits inside the handle of our tow bar to install the lock. Worst case, you can just push the tail down and install the lock from the ground, or one of the partners in our airplane is tall enough to reach it. The gust locks for all of our surfaces are kept in a red bag, the red bag gets placed over the stick grip when the gust locks are installed as a reminder. This is very light and simple, it locks the surfaces so the control linkages are not worked by the wind.

Jason Kreidler RV-10 Flying, RV-14 Wings
 

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