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Io-360 B1E

Rv8bill

Member
I'm looking at a run out (1900 hrs) Lyc IO-360 B1E with approx 6000 hrs. total time. I don't mind that it's in need of overhaul because my intent is to disassemble and inspect anyway. My concern is 6,000 hrs. TT. Should this amount of TT in and of itself be of concern? Even so, If during overhaul I adequately & thoroughly inspect and replace as needed, should I not worry about 6,000 hrs. TT? Please share your thoughts / experience.
 
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How are you going to route your induction ?

No room back there really and could be really tricky.


IO-360-B1E 180 2700 100/100LL 8.50:1 Similar to –B1B with rear mounted fuel injection and -1200 series impulse coupling Magnetos
 
How are you going to route your induction ?

No room back there really and could be really tricky.


IO-360-B1E 180 2700 100/100LL 8.50:1 Similar to –B1B with rear mounted fuel injection and -1200 series impulse coupling Magnetos

The -B1B is a REAR facing induction system so the sump will not work on an RV. Yes the sump can be replaced.

series-engine-360.png


6,000 hour on the case may or may not be an issue. I had a crack develop in the case on my airplane just over 6,700 engine hours and ended up replacing the engine. Crack was leaking enough oil that I would not fly the airplane.
 
The -B1B is a REAR facing induction system so the sump will not work on an RV. Yes the sump can be replaced.

series-engine-360.png


6,000 hour on the case may or may not be an issue. I had a crack develop in the case on my airplane just over 6,700 engine hours and ended up replacing the engine. Crack was leaking enough oil that I would not fly the airplane.
Thanks for replying. Help me better understand the issue. I'm assuming the rear facing sump in the B1E will not allow enough room between the engine and firewall to route the induction manifold. And replacing the sump moves it forward to allow enough room?

Thanks again,
 
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Sump

Sump air inlets are either on the back, bottom or front of the engine (talking RVs not pusher configurations). RVs don’t have the room to mount the fuel injector or carb on the rear of the sump. It’s not the space between the engine and firewall so much as the engine mount structure is in the way. A rear inlet sump needs to be swapped to a bottom inlet (vertical induction) or a front inlet (horizontal induction) to work on a RV. Went thru this with my RV9 build, IO-320-B1A is rear inlet and I changed the sump to a O-320-D2J bottom inlet.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
You might want to check the logs and review the previous overhauls. For example, if the mains are already 6 under there isn't much room to grind them down further and could require a new crank. Conversely, if it had a new crank at the last overhaul odds of it not being reusable are fairly low. Look at all the major parts this way. Finally, check to see if the engine has been sitting at any time since the last overhaul. Lycomings are really susceptible to corrosion from sitting unless properly preserved. If I had to choose between the high time runner and the low time sitter, I'd take the runner.
 
Thanks Don. Recently spoke with a Lycoming rep who told me the same thing. Are replacement sumps easy to find? I assume they may pop up on e-bay or barnstormers occasionally. Finally, What is the best way to determine if a front or bottom inlet from another model is compatible? bolt patterns?, induction tube locations? etc. Thanks again
 
Great into, thanks. Decisions.. Decisions. Fortunately I have a great engine man who can assist. My initial intent is to teardown and inspect whatever I buy. Fuselage not arriving until March.
 
There are two B1Es!

I once heard it rumored that there were not two Lycoming engines with the same model number. :) Well, low and behold I also bought an IO-360B1E for my RV-8 back in 2003. It was sitting on a hangar floor on a pile of tires. All the accessory holes and spark plug holes were open and the owner said it had been sitting like that since a local A&P did an overhaul on it six years earlier. Well I couldn't trust that the innards weren't corroded so I bought it for core value ($8000) with the provision that the cam, crank and case would pass inspection and sent it off to Mahlon Russel at Mattituck for a fresh overhaul. The overhaul, which included replacing the rear induction sump with a front induction cost around $10,000. In the end I spent about $18,000 for an engine that hauled my RV around for sixteen years and 2250 hours.

BTW I just sold that old rear induction sump on VAF!
 
Thanks Ron. The B1E that I'm looking at is selling for about the price of a core. Includes all accessories. My intent is to completely disassemble similar to what you did.
 
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