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Absolutely hate my Crow harness..suggestion?

MacCool

Well Known Member
In my RV-9A, I have a Crow 5-point restraint in both seats (11 years old). I absolutely hate it. It is extraordinarily difficult to buckle. Each component requires a substantial amount of force before each latches. Is it possible to lube it? And if so, with what? Generally, I'd just as soon buy a new harness and throw this one in the trash. Any ideas on how I can rescue it?
 
Well, gosh, after 11 years with no lube, I can see why it might be tough to fasten the buckle. Once it's fastened, how does it work? Do the straps stay in place? Do they loosen up when they shouldn't? If not, it sounds like they're good harnesses that just need a little long-overdue TLC.

How about a small drop of Mouse Milk in the ball clasp at the buckle? Be sure not to get it on the straps.
 
If we mean that it doesn’t spontaneously unbuckle in-flight, then it’s a fine harness. But it’s an absolute bitch to get buckled, and I hate it.

I will give Crow a call, but I have very short level of patience for tossing the thing and getting a Simpson (or something..anything) to replace this point of frustration.
 
I opened the buckles, removed the springs, cut them down, and put everything back together. This greatly reduced the effort to insert the belts. They work very nicely now.
 
I’ve been flying with Crow harnesses for 15 years now, installing them in every new airplane I have built, and their buckles have gotten smaller and smoother over The years. The latest design is far nicer than the big clunky ones I have in the -8, my original set - but they still works just fine every time I go and fly with them.

You might develop a little more patience when you discover the price difference between a new set of Simpsons or Hookers and a new set of Crows - but buy what you like best.

I’d definitely call Crow though - I’ve never heard of a set that was tough to buckle, so the used ones you have might well have been mistreated.

Just my experience....

Paul
 
If we mean that it doesn’t spontaneously unbuckle in-flight, then it’s a fine harness. But it’s an absolute bitch to get buckled, and I hate it.

I will give Crow a call, but I have very short level of patience for tossing the thing and getting a Simpson (or something..anything) to replace this point of frustration.


Mine jams if I don't buckle it in this sequence:
If the release mechanism is on the right lap then, first insert crotch strap then right shoulder tongue, left shoulder tongue and finally left lap belt tongue. This always works on mine but, if I try any other sequence, then your right, it's a beech.
 
So, I guess we're talking about the Crow Kam Lock? I suspect you're in possession of a quality harness that just needs some maintenance.
I've had their standard latch link 5 point for over a decade and they are marvelously simple. Setup for "right hand release" for me.
 
What colour are they? If you're really tired of them i'd be happy to swap you my stock Van's 4-point harnesses for your Crows...
 
I'm going to call Crow today....get some maintenance advice. I acknowledge their reputation, just not happy with the way mine works. I am mindful of the cost of a replacement, the reason I haven't already replaced them.
 
I've flown with the latest Crow plastic camlocks and thought they worked nicely. I called them and asked if I could get just the camlock and they said no you have to get new belts. Which I didn't understand since the old belts will latch into the new plastic camlocks just fine. I then took my aluminum camlocks apart and cut about 1/4" off the springs and put them back together. They work just like the plastic camlocks now. Very easy. Its simply spring tension on the beveled pins.
 
I've flown with the latest Crow plastic camlocks and thought they worked nicely. I called them and asked if I could get just the camlock and they said no you have to get new belts. Which I didn't understand since the old belts will latch into the new plastic camlocks just fine. I then took my aluminum camlocks apart and cut about 1/4" off the springs and put them back together. They work just like the plastic camlocks now. Very easy. Its simply spring tension on the beveled pins.

I just talked with a couple of people at Crow. One guy advised that I might need a new Kam Lock, but the other, the head maintenance guy, doubted that I could buy just the Kam Lock (owner is out of town). He advised me to detach the Kam Lock and put it on the bench, blow it out, apply some graphite. He did strongly advise against taking the Kam Lock apart unless I was a watchmaker.
 
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