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Tip Up Canopy Seal - AirCraftDoorSeals.com

PittsCondor

Well Known Member
I wanted to start a thread about the tip up canopy seal I found and just installed on my aircraft today. This is the first seal that I was able to find that provides what I believe is a very robust solution. I am not affiliated with the vendor in anyway. I searched Van's threads and read many posts looking for solutions to seal the canopy. What I like about this seal is how it attaches and how it seals to the canopy. The seals they sell are used on certified aircraft also, not that we care. If you buy their kit you get the material to seal the front of the canopy and the sides. To install the front seal I recommend you remove the canopy to allow easy access to install the seal. The seal you get is approximately 1/2 wide x 1/2 wide. You trim off one side of the seal for a custom fit and end up with an 1/2 wide x 1/8 wide seal. The 1/2" wide side is attached to the upper canopy skin with 3M Superweather Strip Adhesive. This creates a nice continuous seal the 1/8" leg goes to the aft side of the canopy and this creates the seal on the aluminum stiffener used on the firewall. While I was in there I used seam sealer and made a couple aluminum filler pieces to bridge the gap where the hinges insert. There are multiple posts showing how to do these improvements. The side seals come in 2 thicknesses of square seal that are used to custom fit the gap sealing and make the canopy seal fit nicely. The side seals have a white strip with peal off tape and are self adhesive applied. I just finished the installation today and am letting it sit for a day or two. I will give PIREP after flying it and report the results.

I added the documentation that came with the seals below.

The seal kit cost $78. The vendor says they spent over a year and half perfecting the seal kit before offering it for sale. I will post a few pictures but you really can't tell much about it from the pictures.

Here is there website and Knotts2U website who may have bought them out.

Aircraftdoorseals.com
Knotts2u.net

I hope I have not violated any posting rules. Again, I'm not affiliated in anyway to these companies. Just happy to pass along the solution they are offering so seal our canopies.
 

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Thanks for the report. I'm looking for a good solution for the tipup seal as well. Please follow up and let us know how it turns out.
 
Added installation instructions to original post

You can click on the installation instructions in the original post and they will be readable in the correct orientation.
 
Thanks for posting this, Can you add a pix of the cross section of the seal? That would help.

BTW I tried my best to fit the perimeter to use the Vans tear drop teflon seal. It has a limited range of gap use but works well within that range. I tested it to see what kind of pressure it would hold, and it was well in excess of our velocities.

Also, I found that the compression pressure per foot (any length) is a limit for the non-Vans seal. I tried many and attempting to get close to the 1/8" was a detriment for many seals. Most seals are too thick for this to allow some practical compression range. Just too much compression force does not allow easy and full connection of the latch mechanism. At least in my experience.

Currently my gap on one canopy rail is about .030" too much for the teardrop to seal. Any suggestions as to a larger teardrop is invited. Or some .030" thick clear tape?;)
 
Very cool -- thanks for posting;

This is what I used on the front edge of the canopy, between the F-768C and C-702: https://www.mcmaster.com/1067A3-1067A43 - I believe it's the same material as Van's calls Rubber Chnl S88D20X60. The challenge here, as stated elsewhere, is getting a good seal with material that is 1/8" thick when compressed.

For further noise reduction, I used https://www.mcmaster.com/1120a112 along the inside flange of the canopy (F-631-A-L&R) with a cutout for the handle.

And I used more of the https://www.mcmaster.com/1067A3-1067A43 along the canopy between the flange of the F-631-A and the edge of the canopy -- this "just touches" the forward edge of the F-631-A-L&R roll bar assembly when closed and seals up the canopy.
 
More Pics of seal

Here is a piece of left over front seal I had. You can see were I trimmed off one side of the seal to create the 1/8" leg. (those are not my nails).

You can also see the seam sealer I applied and the rain guard I added as safety measure.

Side seals are square and come in 2 thicknesses to "custom" fit the seal by stacking if needed.
 

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Don't get locked in.

A word of caution based on my experience getting locked in.

When I was in the process of testing out my canopy seal. One seal I used was just a bit to thick, but I used it and was happy because I was able to close and latch the canopy sitting inside. With a little pressure the latch pulled it snug. Ahhhh, this will be great... no wind.

Oooops, it wouldn't open. the tube that extends back from the latch to the locking hook would bend with every attempt to unlock and open it. Too much seal pressure was pushing up and the locking hook would not slide over the pin, it was like the hook was frozen in place.

I'm closed in the hangar, no cell phone to call for help, am I going to have to break the canopy to get out..... but I had nothing in here with me to break it .... or just maybe I'll be in locked in here forever? Help?

I tried and tried, rod just kept bending, no tools handy, tools are all outside on the bench. Help?

Sitting inside, I was not able to grab the hook with my hands/fingers and get enough leverage to pull it off the pin. Interior and seatbacks don't allow much room to turn around and do anything when you're seated inside.

Finally my brain kicked in. I took off my belt, looped it through the hook and was able to pull it with enough force to slide the hook over the pin and get free.

Needless to say I never when in without tools again and ended up using a thinner gasket seal. I also took a canopy breaking hammer in with me, but would never have liked to use it for such an dumb mistake.

Pretty embarrassing, but I needed to pass it along as a "don't try doing it this way" to new builders.
 
A word of caution based on my experience getting locked in.

When I was in the process of testing out my canopy seal. One seal I used was just a bit to thick, but I used it and was happy because I was able to close and latch the canopy sitting inside. With a little pressure the latch pulled it snug. Ahhhh, this will be great... no wind.

Oooops, it wouldn't open. the tube that extends back from the latch to the locking hook would bend with every attempt to unlock and open it. Too much seal pressure was pushing up and the locking hook would not slide over the pin, it was like the hook was frozen in place.

I'm closed in the hangar, no cell phone to call for help, am I going to have to break the canopy to get out..... but I had nothing in here with me to break it .... or just maybe I'll be in locked in here forever? Help?

I tried and tried, rod just kept bending, no tools handy, tools are all outside on the bench. Help?

Sitting inside, I was not able to grab the hook with my hands/fingers and get enough leverage to pull it off the pin. Interior and seatbacks don't allow much room to turn around and do anything when you're seated inside.

Finally my brain kicked in. I took off my belt, looped it through the hook and was able to pull it with enough force to slide the hook over the pin and get free.

Needless to say I never when in without tools again and ended up using a thinner gasket seal. I also took a canopy breaking hammer in with me, but would never have liked to use it for such an dumb mistake.

Pretty embarrassing, but I needed to pass it along as a "don't try doing it this way" to new builders.

+1 Thanks for a more descriptive reason than "compression force per foot" . I happened to have a screwdriver to open, and the seal was removed immediately.
 
What I used

I've used hardware store window trim foam on the side rails in the past. It did last 12 years (and a lot of hard IFR in rain) before it finally gave up sealing. I've always found the original Van's front seal to work well if properly installed. Since it still doesn't leak, I'm keeping it in place.

So I ordered the Knots 2U seal system... I was not impressed, especially for the cost... Their system only uses 1/4" or 3/16" wide rubber seals on rails that are at least 1/2" wide. So back the Ace Hardware again, and I found this for the side rails:
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/weather-stripping/weather-stripping/5332085
This seems to seal the side rails quite well - I'll know more when I fly it in the rain. It's a little tight, but adjusting the canopy hold down clips make it totally acceptable with no binding when locking the canopy..

I still need to replace the foam seal on the backside of the canopy (over the roll bar). In the past I just used 3/4W x 1/4H open cell window trim. The Knots 2U lit rubber appears to be too thick (and too narrow) for this area. I'll be looking for a (low cost) hardware store solution for this too.
 
What I did

I've used hardware store window trim foam on the side rails in the past. It did last 12 years (and a lot of hard IFR in rain) before it finally gave up sealing. I've always found the original Van's front seal to work well if properly installed. Since it still doesn't leak, I'm keeping it in place.

So I ordered the Knots 2U seal system... I was not impressed, especially for the cost... Their system only uses 1/4" or 3/16" wide rubber seals on rails that are at least 1/2" wide. So back the Ace Hardware again, and I found this for the side rails:
https://www.acehardware.com/departments/building-supplies/weather-stripping/weather-stripping/5332085
This seems to seal the side rails quite well - I'll know more when I fly it in the rain. It's a little tight, but adjusting the canopy hold down clips make it totally acceptable with no binding when locking the canopy..

I still need to replace the foam seal on the backside of the canopy (over the roll bar). In the past I just used 3/4W x 1/4H open cell window trim. The Knots 2U lit rubber appears to be too thick (and too narrow) for this area. I'll be looking for a (low cost) hardware store solution for this too.

I installed 1/2" w X 1/4 T open cell foam over the roll bar area. It appears to be sealing OK, but I did have to adjust the hold lug WD-622 on both sides...

So I went out yesterday and flew IFR in the rain. No leaks so far, but I did notice that the front third of the canopy, on both sides, had an air gap (I could see light under the seal). So I'll be looking for a thicker seal in that area..

The rest of the side rails sealed tight, as well as the roll bar area. The original front seal area is still dry too. No more whistles either...
 
Steve....your call sign should be "MacGyver". Glad it turned out to be only an embarrassing story. Sure beats the alternative!

A word of caution based on my experience getting locked in.

When I was in the process of testing out my canopy seal. One seal I used was just a bit to thick, but I used it and was happy because I was able to close and latch the canopy sitting inside. With a little pressure the latch pulled it snug. Ahhhh, this will be great... no wind.

Oooops, it wouldn't open. the tube that extends back from the latch to the locking hook would bend with every attempt to unlock and open it. Too much seal pressure was pushing up and the locking hook would not slide over the pin, it was like the hook was frozen in place.

I'm closed in the hangar, no cell phone to call for help, am I going to have to break the canopy to get out..... but I had nothing in here with me to break it .... or just maybe I'll be in locked in here forever? Help?

I tried and tried, rod just kept bending, no tools handy, tools are all outside on the bench. Help?

Sitting inside, I was not able to grab the hook with my hands/fingers and get enough leverage to pull it off the pin. Interior and seatbacks don't allow much room to turn around and do anything when you're seated inside.

Finally my brain kicked in. I took off my belt, looped it through the hook and was able to pull it with enough force to slide the hook over the pin and get free.

Needless to say I never when in without tools again and ended up using a thinner gasket seal. I also took a canopy breaking hammer in with me, but would never have liked to use it for such an dumb mistake.

Pretty embarrassing, but I needed to pass it along as a "don't try doing it this way" to new builders.
 
I also took a canopy breaking hammer in with me, but would never have liked to use it for such an dumb mistake.

And think how much worse it would be if you'd used that hammer to get out, and then someone afterwards said "you know, if you used the seat belt and looped it around that hook, you might have been able to pull it..."
 
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