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RV-8 Chris S. Johnson

CSJohnson

Active Member
Every build has to start somewhere, and here is the starting point for mine!

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I've been wanting to build an RV-8 for more than a few years, though have considered the Sonex OneX and SPA Panther, primarily because of lower overall costs (especially given the folding wings and ability to trailer), and that most of my flying has been alone.

The OneX never seemed like "enough airplane" to suit me, and while I really like the new Panther and its creators, only one prototype exists and I'd prefer to see a longer track record with customer built versions flying to be comfortable. And, even if most often I fly alone, I really enjoy sharing the experience whenever possible.

So I start my RV-8 build with a messy garage, few tools, no prior experience, but a dream, desire, motivation and a wealth of knowledge and experience at my disposal on VAF! :D
 
Howdy Neighbor!

I like the choice you made ;)

The RV-8 is a fun airplane! Of course, any of the Vans fleet is for that matter so choosing Vans was a good choice in my opinion.

Good luck with the build.
 
Chris, about the only difference I see between your shop and mine is that my furnace is on the other side of the door into the house. You'll be fine.;)
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Quincy QT-54 Air Compressor Arrives

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There are a lot of opinions on VAF regarding air compressors. Some have had success with small, portable pancake models, while others recommend getting the biggest compressor you can afford. You can also buy new, or find used compressors on Craigslist. I used available space, airflow requirements, reliability and budget as my primary criteria, and I'm going to summarize some of what I learned to help others.

Air pressure is measured in pounds per square inch (PSI) and airflow is measured in cubic feet per minute (CFM). You need to know what your tools require (e.g. 6.2 CFM @ 40 PSI) and that will give you your minimum requirements. I'm considering doing my own painting, and some paint guns consume a lot of air. Die grinders are also air hogs, though rivet guns and drills don't require too much. So, determine what tools you will use and their air requirements (I was told to assume a little higher than what the manufacturers state), and that will tell you what CFM and PSI you need from your compressor.

Then it's a matter of tank size and how often the motor needs to run. The bigger the tank, the less the motor will run. 80 Gallons seemed about right, until I visited my local Northern Tool and saw how big an 80 gallon tank is compared to the 60 gallon. There's also a requirement that the compressor be a certain distance from the wall, usually 12-24 inches, so it can draw the air it needs. 80 Gallons is too big for my space, not to mention very heavy and therefore difficult to move. 60 Gallons it was.

Most stationary air compressors need to be wired directly to the breaker box and require 230 volts. The largest I found that run on 115-120 volts were the BelAire 2061V and Schrader SA1560 at 2HP with 60 gallon tanks, but their output is considerably less and would limit if not eliminate my ability to use high quality paint sprayers. If you're just going to use compressed air for rivet guns and drills, these, and even smaller could work. I found nothing greater than 2HP or 60 gallons that didn't need 230v. And, you can't just buy a dryer plug from Lowe's and use your dryer receptacle, which I was hoping. It should be wired to your breaker box with the right breakers.

I thought about buying a Lowe's Kobalt or Home Depot Husky brand compressor, but found the reviews to be mixed. Some people had no problems and loved them, but too many people did have problems and experienced a lot of downtime. Once you have a 60 or 80 gallon air compressor installed, it's not trivial to remove it, get it back to the store, and then the reverse to get the new one installed. Similar with used models. No guarantees, and I just didn't want to have to worry about the downtime and hassle. Quincy and Ingersoll Rand seemed to be among the top brands with many examples of their being installed and running for decades. They also hold their value and would be easy to sell if need be.

Finally, budget/cost. Even if the size of the 80 gallon compressors hadn't been an issue, weight, and therefore shipping and ease of installation was. They tend to be about 100lbs-200lbs heavier, and the increase in shipping cost can be dramatic. Unless you've got a team of very strong people available, you'll want to purchase gate service, which means the shipper will lower the compressor to street level. But then you'll need some sort of lift to get it into position. An engine lift could work, but once it's in place, unless the lift is available that compressor isn't going to be easy to move, even a few inches. Some may have a forklift, pallet jack or engine hoist readily available, but for those that don't, you'll pay for the added shipping weight, more expensive gate service, and a hoist to lift and move the compressor. When my compressor arrived the driver had a pallet jack, so he lowered it to the street and we pushed/pulled it into my garage.

I paid about $1,600 total for a 5HP 60 gallon compressor rated for 30,000 hours with a three year warranty, gate service, and maintenance kit (oil and filters) that puts out 15.2 CFM @ 175 PSI and 16 CFM @ 90 PSI. The 80 gallon model would have been well over $2,000.

Noise is also something to consider. You'll see on VAF that everyone agrees that oil-less compressors are very loud. Many compressor spec's include a dB rating, so that may also be something to consider.

I am not an expert. This is just my experience, research results, and personal considerations. But I thought putting it all in one post might be helpful. I'll add more as I get it installed and gain experience with its use.
 
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Garage All Cleaned Up

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Obviously I didn't do all this cleaning since the last post. I think I have about three months of effort documented that I'll post in the next day or so.

Unfortunately the garage didn't stay that clean for more than a few minutes, as there's a bunch of stuff behind me when I took the picture that had to get back in there. But, I donated, sold, recycled, and appropriately disposed of anything that I didn't need. I also put a few things in the attic. And, of course, right after I did all this my little lady needed a few things! Her - "Honey, where's the ______?" Me - "Uhhhhhh..." :eek:
 
Lighting

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Originally my garage had one incandescent light socket in the center, and one over the laundry area. That certainly wouldn't be enough, but I wasn't sure how to determine what was.

There are some lighting professionals on VAF and a good deal of information can be found. What was most helpful for me was using the Visual Interior Tool which I mentioned in a previous post. I hadn't expected to delve into lighting this deeply, but after reading some of the pro posts I'm glad I did, and it didn't take too much time.

The key with this tool was that once I came to estimates for the variables (e.g. reflectance, illuminance, etc.) as referenced in that post, and selected the model of lights to use, it gave me exact measurements as to where to place them. Then it was a matter of drilling the mounting holes, and if I hit a beam I used a wood screw, but if not I widened the hole and used toggle bolts.

In that post I had thought that I was going to go with LED lights, but after quite a bit of feedback I went with Lithonia Wrap 2-Light Ceiling Lights from Home Depot. I'm very happy with the choice. The lighting is excellent and with virtually no shadows.

This light model acts as it's own junction box, so I just wired the lights in parallel starting from the junction box for the original incandescent bulb which is on one switch, and the same separately with the light over the laundry area that's on another switch. Then I used round covers to hide the former light locations (you can see one behind the outlet into which the garage door opener is plugged in if you look real closely). Easy, no electrician needed, and meets my local codes.

Here are my results from using the tool and selecting that light model:
GarageLighting2.jpg
 
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Welcome to the clean garage club!

Hey Chris,
Love the look of the garage - lots of room in there for RV-8 parts, tools, workbenches, wing stands....! :) It's amazing how much umph you get just getting the garage cleaned out - and the compressor installed. Now get that empennage ordered and join us -8 builders! :D
 
Electrical

I was comfortable installing and wiring the lights, but not the air compressor or new outlets/receptacles. For that I hired an electrician who did the work for $250.

He added two outlets with four receptacles each and wired them to a tandem 20 amp breaker. The tandem breaker takes up one slot in the box, but it creates two circuits, each with it's own breaker switch. Also, this breaker is separate from the one for the lights. The big benefit is that if I trip a breaker by using too many tools, I won't be in the dark because I won't lose the lights too.

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Between two walls and the ceiling, I'll have 16 individual receptacles available across three circuits. My breaker panel is now completely full, so if I need anything more, I'll have to get a bigger panel or install a sub-panel.
 
Work Tables

I built two EAA Chapter 1000 worktables/workbenches per the EAA Sport Aviation Article.

The article made the build very easy by specifying exactly what materials to purchase and providing a cut list. I used 4' T-square and a 10" miter saw to measure and make the cuts, and they came out nearly perfect.

I measured and marked where I wanted the screws to go, and drilled holes for them. This seemed to work well and I think it would have been much more difficult to screw a 3" drywall screw through two 2x4's without them.

As others did, I have a lip of about 2" on the top to allow for clamping.

I used 3/8" T-nuts and elevator bolts on the legs to allow for leveling as I know my garage floor is angled toward the driveway and not perfectly flat. The article says the elevator bolts are too expensive so they used carriage bolts, but I didn't think the price was that bad.

I actually built two sets of tables with different measurements as I plan to mount a C-Frame between one set.

Here's the standard that are 60" x 24":
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And here's a set for the C-Frame and are 48" x 30" that ultimately will be connected to become one:
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I also added new pegboard above where these work tables will go.
 
Hey Chris,
Love the look of the garage - lots of room in there for RV-8 parts, tools, workbenches, wing stands....! :) It's amazing how much umph you get just getting the garage cleaned out - and the compressor installed. Now get that empennage ordered and join us -8 builders! :D

Hi Jim - Yeah, I can't wait to place the empennage order, but it still seems like there's so much more to do! But I'm getting much closer, and hope to place the order within a few weeks.

Thanks!

Chris
 
Chris, about the only difference I see between your shop and mine is that my furnace is on the other side of the door into the house. You'll be fine.;)
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Hi Miles - The garage was clean for awhile, but from now on I'm just hoping for organized chaos.

I hope my girl doesn't see the picture you posted with your helper. I can hear her now, "You don't expect me to do that....well, do you???" ;)

Chris
 
Garage/Workshop and Climate Control

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Final result of the garage cleanup effort. I built racks for our bikes and kayaks, and tried to use every bit of space under and around them.

I also insulated the ceiling above the garage. Fortunately the garage door is thick and insulated, but climate control is still a concern. I'm in Tampa, Florida and it can get hot and humid. Opening the door from the garage to the house with a fan there helps, but isn't a great solution, or so I'm told!

A window unit won't fit in the one garage window, and I've not seen great reviews of the portable AC units. I called an AC company to see about installing a vent, but it's against code unless you permanently wall off the garage door, lest a car ever go back in and send carbon monoxide into the house.

So my best choice seems to be a portable air conditioner for about $455.

Alternatives welcome!

Chris
 
Bolting Down the Air Compressor

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For the warranty to be valid Quincy requires that the compressor be installed to their spec's. Mine needs to be 12" from the wall and bolted to the floor.

I was nervous about this as I'd never drilled holes in a floor like that, but thanks to Google and YouTube it wasn't difficult to learn how.

I bought an inexpensive hammer drill from Harbor Freight for $30 along with a 3/8" by 6" mason bit. I'm told that you can use a regular drill, but that it will take a lot longer, and using a hammer drill makes it like "going through butter!" The hammer drill has proven helpful for other tasks too as my garage has cinder block walls onto which I needed to attach some things, so was well worth it.

I measured, marked, held my breath and drilled (with safety glasses, ear protection, and sanding respirator on). Tons of fine dust was created but it was easy. If I did it again I might start with a smaller drill bit and start a pilot hole.

I positioned the compressor over the holes and determined that they were pretty well aligned. I had to drill holes into the vibration pads (purchased from Rapidair Products), but since they're rubber and cork that was a quick task. I put the vibration pads under each leg and aligned everything. Finally I put 3/8" x 5.5" wedge anchor bolts through the holes, hammered them down, put the washers and nuts on and tightened it all down.

Initially the compressor wasn't very level. It might not have hurt anything, but it was off enough that it was visible. I purchased a second set of vibration pads from Lowe's. These are made by Campbell Hausfeld, and include a metal plate with rubber on each side. I used the rubber pieces under the legs as necessary to level the compressor and re-tightened the nuts.

This compressor won't budge! I don't think that the vibration dampeners make much if any difference with this compressor, but I know others have found that they make a huge difference. I know some don't bolt theirs down and/or leave it on the pallet, but the vertical compressors are top heavy and if someone leaned or fell against it, it could definitely tip over.
 
Looks great, Chris! Your organization is really going to make the build enjoyable.

You might consider building a plywood box around the compressor to reduce the noise, lined with sound absorption material. Your large tank capacity means the compressor won't run that often, but when it does kick on it's a little annoying. I've heard that even shrouding the compressor's air intake can cut the sound level significantly.

Making a compressor box is on my to-do list? :)
 
Journey of 10,000 Rivets begins with a garage project

Looks Great Chris!

Mine started with garage insulation and heat - I did'n know it then, but I was already building a plane!

Enjoy each and every rivet, dimple and debur!
 
Plumbing the Air Compressor

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I sure hope these posts will be helpful to some. I'd never purchased an air compressor or installed a compressed air system, and while there's a ton of information on VAF and online, there was still a lot to piece together.

Plumbing the air compressor and determining the correct filters and other items to use, and why, wasn't easy. I'm sure there are a lot of opinions and reasoning, but here's what I learned and did.

First, to the air outlet on the compressor I attached a "whip hose." The purpose of a whip hose is to prevent the vibration of the compressor when running being transferred to the pipes. Some people plumb their compressor directly to the piping, but this can eventually create failures as the vibrations wear down connection points and they can leak or even burst.

The threads for all fittings, including the whip hose, are wrapped twice with teflon tape, followed by pipe paste (Harveyseal in my case). I try to leave the first thread or two bare.

The whip hose is connected to a brass elbow fitting and then the first filter. The brass elbow and other brass fittings were all purchased at Lowe's in the plumbing section. The outlet from the compressor is a 1/2" NPT (thread type), therefore the hose and fittings are also 1/2" and either NPT or MIP which are the same.

Dirt, water, and used compressor oil are bad for tools and especially paint sprayers, hence the filters.

The first filter is a Wilkerson F26-04-000 Particulate Filter to which I added a GRP-95-714 Float Drain so I won't have to remember to drain it.

The second filter is a Wilkerson M26-04-F00 Coalescing Filter to remove water and oil.

The next item is a Airkert Inline Regulator from Rapidair. My compressor is capable of 175psi though it was wired for 155psi, and the tools only need 90psi. So this regulator reduces the pressure from the compressor down to 90psi. You could instead or also use a regulator right at the tool to reduce the pressure. There are options. Two benefits of having the regulator where it is located is that if a pipe or fitting fails, there will be less pressure in the system. Also, for those who have a lot of piping and outlets, reducing the pressure close to the compressor means the compressor doesn't have to work as hard and will cycle on less frequently.

I mounted the filters and regulator to a 3/4" board using 1/2" split ring hangers, 3/8" threaded rods, and top plate connectors for threaded rods, all purchased in the plumbing section at Lowe's.

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Cooler air to the garage

Maybe this will help. I had a home built but "code" would not allow them to place a vent in the garage for CO2 safety reasons. I understand but when the garage is full with a project, I can't get a car in there.
So I watched the new construction in the neighborhood and noticed A/C guys throwing away insulated 6" flex duct hose used for heating/AC. I asked if I could have this and they told me to take it as it was in the garbage pile.
I go up in the attic and remove the same flex duct hose connected to a hall closet and carefully seal closet vent pipe with aviation grade ...wait for it...DUCT tape. I couldn't see having a vent in a hall closet to keep coats warm or cool so I purchased an in line connector at Lowes for $6 and a vent with a louvre so I could drop cool air into the 3 car garage when working on a project. It does not bring the garage to the same temp as the house but it does work well while keeping the house cool instead of opening the door and running a fan. When I am done for the night, I simply shut the ceiling vent and go inside. Check to see if you have an area that you can alter in the attic, and not from the laundry room.

Pat Garboden
Katy, TX
RV9A N942PT
Phase I complete
Dues paid
 
Nice

Wow. Nice job. I feel so inadequate. :eek:
I have a 20 gal/5 hp. It does have an oil/water separator and regulator on it but nothing even close to your set up. I don't have a moisture or air conditioning issue at 7,500' though.
One thing I've found handy, others use various setups, is some method of pulling two pressures. With yours, two regulators would be easy. I use a three way manifold at the end of my hose and have two pigtails for tools. It keeps pressure at the tool consistent. One is at 90 psi and one is about 30. I can easily adjust the lower one for the rivet gun and don't have to fool with a regulator to use the higher one when I use the drill or squeezer. For priming, I put the filters and regulator at the gun.
Nice work. Now get busy with the empennage! :D
 
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Compressed Air Piping and Outlets

My air compressor is on one side of the garage, but my work area is on the other. The best solution I found for my needs was the Rapidair Maxline system.

I plan to use the Numatx hydraulic squeezer system designed by Mark Swinford. That means I'll need to connect the compressed air system to the intensifier. I'll need another drop available to which to connect tools, and another in case I have a helper and also to which I'll make an air dryer available for if/when I'm using paint sprayers.

I used a 1/2" MIP brass elbow out of the regulator to connect to the Maxline system. I had positioned the filters and regulator so that the line coming out would be aligned with a stud so it would be easy to attach the mounting clips.

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I ran a line up to the ceiling, across to the other side of the garage, and across part of the wall over my work area. I then installed three drops along the wall. Since the outlet from the compressor is 1/2", I'm using 1/2" in pipe throughout. Most 60 gallon compressors will output from a 1/2" fitting and I understand that there isn't any advantage to using larger pipe. If your compressor has a 3/4" or even 1" output valve, the larger pipe would make more sense.

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It was actually pretty easy. The pipe is flexible and easy to straighten. Once in the mounts it's almost perfectly straight. Attaching the fittings is also easy and just takes tightening using two wrenches.

I created a cap using a 1/2" NTP threaded male to pipe connector and screwing on a brass cap (always with two wraps of teflon tape and pipe paste to seal). That way I could test the system for leaks one section at a time.

I did experience leaks with the outlets. The package clearly states NOT to use teflon tape, but only pipe paste. I built all three outlets, all three leaked (I could hear it, but also sprayed with soapy water and could see the bubbles at the point of the leak), and I rebuilt one and it also still leaked. I called Rapidair who said that they have changed the instructions and I should use teflon tape. After that, sealed. I filled the system, set the regulator to 90psi, and left it overnight. No leaks!

Keeping water out of the system is a concern. The compressor tank, filters, and outlets all allow for draining. To the filters I just attach 5/8" hose and drain into a bucket. At the outlets I can shut off the air before the outlet and open another at the bottom to allow it to drain. For the compressor I decided to install an electric drain.

I unscrewed the valve at the bottom of the compressor and (using teflon tape and pipe paste!) screwed on the Jorc 2523 electric drain. It has two timers, one for 1-45 minutes to open the valve, and the other for 0.5-10 seconds to determine how long to leave it open. Mine is set to open every 45 minutes for two seconds. When it activates, it's loud!

Since the compressor is a few feet away from an outside wall, I decided to drill a hole in the wall and route the pipe outside. I also used some pipe insulation to muffle the noise.

Here's the hammer drill and 1" x 12" mason bit. I did use smaller bits to start:
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And here's the result. It's very quiet:
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There's an expanding foam spray called "Great Stuff" that I got from Lowe's and that I used on both the inside and outside of the wall to seal it.

It's installed and holds air. Now I can't wait to use it!
 
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Chris, if you put this much thought and effort into your RV8, it is going to be a spectacular example of what a plane should be.:D

Good luck, looking forward to seeing this thing come together.
 
Wow. Nice job. I feel so inadequate. :eek:
I have a 20 gal/5 hp. It does have an oil/water separator and regulator on it but nothing even close to your set up...

Hi Larry - Don't feel inadequate! It all depends on the criteria. How about we compare workshop costs, or workshop prep time to build time? Do either of those and suddenly I'm very inadequate!

So many choices! I'm close to ordering my emp, but want to receive the Numatx tools first, which have been ordered. Once that's setup I plan to order the emp and Cleaveland tool kit.

Oh, and multiple regulators? Interesting idea! Thanks!

Chris
 
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Hey Chris,

On the tools front, I can highly recommend getting the 3/32" dimple die pliers and the 3/32" pop-rivet dimpler, if your tool kit doesn't already have them. They really help in the tight spots.
 
Hey Chris,

On the tools front, I can highly recommend getting the 3/32" dimple die pliers and the 3/32" pop-rivet dimpler, if your tool kit doesn't already have them. They really help in the tight spots.

Hi Doug - Thanks for the advice! I plan on purchasing the Cleaveland Complete Airframe Tool Package and it looks like those are included. I'm essentially starting from scratch as all I have are typical wrenches, a ratchet set, hammers screw drivers, etc., so your advice is appreciated!

Actually, most of what I've done to date and future plans are based on reading advice like yours on VAF!

Chris
 
Wow Chris,

Anyone hoping to convince their spouse to be on board with building should just show them your before & after pics of your garage!

I'm hoping to start building soon as well. Great info on the lighting and air compressors. Thanks for sharing.
 
...You might consider building a plywood box around the compressor to reduce the noise, lined with sound absorption material...

Hi Doug - Thanks! I'm trying! This compressor really isn't that loud and fills up quickly, so I might be able to get away without building a box, but I'll know more once I actually start building and would definitely give your suggestion consideration. - Chris
 
Great solution!

...Check to see if you have an area that you can alter in the attic...

Hi Pat - I made a quick trip to a nearby Lowe's to check and I should be able to implement your recommendation for a new vent in the garage for about $50, and it can easily be reversed once the build is complete. So, temporarily out of code but as you said, no way to get a car in there during the build. Actually, there have rarely been cars in that garage since we bought the house! - Thanks! Chris
 
Workshop Turning Back into a Garage - Reverse!

It's been a long time since I've posted, but progress continues. The garage workshop started looking more like a garage again, so I had to take action.

Before
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After
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Oshkosh, Cleavland Aircraft Tools, and More Tools!

I attended Oshkosh and purchased Cleavland Aircraft Tool's Complete Airframe Tool Package with a few additions and subtractions.

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The main subtractions were the rivet hammer and C-Frame. The yellow rivet hammers on the board are an Atlas Copco, RRH04P-12-TS 2X and the RRH06P-TS 3X.

While I tend to research and buy high quality tools, these are overkill for most. The primary reason I went with them is that they dampen vibrations and therefore prevent tennis/rivet elbow. I've had tennis elbow in the past and understand other builders have been diagnosed with the same from riveting, then being sidelined for weeks and even months. I also just finished physical therapy for a shoulder injury which I'd also like to protect.

Each hammer was about $1,300. They're beautiful tools, have a built in air regulator, a great teasing throttle, and I can definitely tell a difference from the rivet hammer I used at a SportAir Workshop. But again, overkill for most, and while I can tell a difference in the feel, the rivets and bucking bar don't seem to care, so the end result is the same. And I can confirm that you can set a horrible rivet with a fantastic rivet hammer!

I'm going to have two C-Frames, at least to start. I purchased the ExperimentalAero DRDT-2 and fabricated a steel C-Frame for use with the Numatx Tools 3340 Intensifier and hydraulic 3060 Squeezer (you can see it hanging on the wall with the black hose attached). (I'll post more on that setup shortly.)

The reason for both manual and hydraulic C-frames and squeezers is that the little lady has let me know that while she supports the project, she's not much interested in participating. However, I do have other family in town and so know that there will be times when I've got a lot of help and an active workshop. The Numatx setup is activated with a foot pedal, so I'll be able to hold skins with two hands to position for dimpling and press the pedal. That allows me to do as much as necessary alone, but still have other options for when I have help or maybe the hydraulics need to be bled.

One question I have for those with a lot of experience dimpling skins is whether mounting the C-frame between the two tables in the picture will give me enough space from the shelves to the right. It's about 4' and I imagine that's enough, but maybe not?
 
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Air Conditioning and Heat

I've gone back-and-forth on this one, and finally decided on a portable unit rather than messing with the air handler in the garage.

Insulating the attic seems to have paid off as this morning it is 37 degrees outside but 62 degrees in the garage/workshop.

After a lot of research (of course!) I purchased the Whynter ARC-14SH portable air conditioner/heater. It's rated to handle 500sf of space and that's right about where I'm at.

I removed a window from a side door and replaced with a mount I fabricated for the intake and exhaust hoses. It really hasn't been fully tested yet and think that will come during the summer when it's 98 degrees with 98% humidity.

AC%2BHeater.jpg
 
Retractable Gear for Workbenches

I used Mike Becker and Mike Hertz's plans to add retractable gear to two of my EAA Workbenches. Again, I'm going to be doing this project alone a lot of the time so this should be a convenient solution rather than waiting for help or dragging the benches across the floor.

It works remarkably well and I'm very pleased with the result. Thanks guys!

Workbench%2BRetractable%2BGear.jpg
 
Bench Grinder and Band/Disc Sander

For a "bench" grinder I purchased the Jet G577101 JBG-6A 6 inch along with the Jet 577172 Pedestal. (Prices has gone up as I got it for $89.)

I left the regular grinding wheel on the left side and installed the 3M 7A Medium 6" that came with the tool kit on the right side.

Jet%2BGrinder.jpg


I also purchased the Jet 577003 J-4002 1 . 42 in. Belt and 8-inch Disc Sander. (Geez, that price went up a lot too!)

I replaced the stock band with a 3M Scotchbrite Medium Maroon.

Jet%2BBand-Disc%2BSander.jpg


I know that I'm not skimping on tools, and am putting out a lot of coin, but my experience from rebuilding a couple of car engines is that quality tools make a difference, particularly in avoiding downtime, and that they can be easily resold on Craigslist or eBay and without losing much value.
 
Van's Practice Projects - Toolbox

So after all this time, effort, and money getting the workshop setup, it's finally time to build something! I decided to do both of Van's practice kits, the Toolbox and Airfoil.

First, my father and I went to work on the toolbox. There is so much to learn! We had a lot of fun working together, learned a lot, made mistakes, but ultimately experienced success.

At one point one of the sides of the box was dimpled in the wrong direction. Okay, a few raps with a hammer to flatten it out, then dimple it the right way. WRONG!!! It doesn't work like that. We installed it anyway and you could definitely tell a difference with how the rivets set. Great lesson to learn.

Toolbox.jpg


Next we're planning to attack the airfoil which will require a number of new techniques:
Airfoil%2BPractice%2BKit.jpg


In addition to learning about the building process, I also learned a lot about the choices I made with tools and setting up the workshop. I know this is but a small project compared to the RV-8 kit, but I'm very pleased with the setup.

Tools were readily accessible. Having multiple drops from the compressor, the lightweight hoses, and two drills with different bits made it easy for us to both work at the same time.

We did some deburring manually, even using a file, and then with the grinder and band sander. The difference in time and results was very significant. Thus far I'm very happy with the setup and hope that continues. I owe a lot to this website as there's a ton of information and guidance from those who've already been there, and I hope I can also contribute to the knowledge.

Time to order the empennage!!! :D
 
I've gone back-and-forth on this one, and finally decided on a portable unit rather than messing with the air handler in the garage.

Insulating the attic seems to have paid off as this morning it is 37 degrees outside but 62 degrees in the garage/workshop.

After a lot of research (of course!) I purchased the Whynter ARC-14SH portable air conditioner/heater. It's rated to handle 500sf of space and that's right about where I'm at.

I removed a window from a side door and replaced with a mount I fabricated for the intake and exhaust hoses. It really hasn't been fully tested yet and think that will come during the summer when it's 98 degrees with 98% humidity.

I use an LG 12,000 BTU portable AC unit vented the same way and it works perfectly. When it is 100 F/ 90% humidity outside, it is a comfortable 72 F /low humidity inside. My garage is attached, 19x18, with insulated walls and doors. You should have no problems with your set-up, even with more humid conditions in Tampa.

-Chris
 
Good decision getting the belt sander, you will find that you will use it more than any othe grinder types. I never used a scotchbrite belt but sounds good, I always kept about 220 grit belt on my one inch sander. Very useful, however I usually done my part deburring and edge prep by hand :)

Bird
 
Empennage Arrived!!!

As if I hadn't convinced myself and others already that I was going to do this, I ordered the empennage and it was delivered by FedEx today.

I decided to put the retractable wheels on my other two workbenches, and still need to get the C-Frame setup with the Numatx equipment installed. I also want to finish the second practice project before I start, but expect to officially start the build in the next week or two.

EmpennagePackages.jpg


StabilizersPackaged.jpg


EmpennageParts.jpg
 
C-Frame and Table Installation

It's been awhile, but progress continues. Getting the C-Frame installed was a particular challenge. I'm using Mark Swinford's Numatx setup. I had the C-Frame fabricated from his drawings, and it's a 106lb hunk of steel.

Mark has an elegant table design that includes the ability to retract and raise the C-Frame as needed. I attempted to execute this design, and despite getting pretty good with the mitre saw, I just don't have the woodworking skills to pull it off with the precision necessary for the pieces to fit together properly. The EAA Chapter 1000 tables are much easier to build.

I thought I would take two EAA tables, slap a sturdy 2X10 on each side, drill mounting holes and off I'd go. But, once again, I couldn't achieve the precision necessary as even with a drill press I couldn't get the holes just in the right place, and when I mounted the C-Frame it wasn't level or flush enough with the tables. (I am a bit of a perfectionist.)

So, I decided I needed both a way to adjust the C-Frame to get it where I want it, and also the ability to mount either the Numatx or the Experimental Aero C-Frames. Yes, I have both, to learn, use when I do have help, and as backups.

I decided to mount both C-Frames to wood, two 2x4's for the Numatx, and a one 2x10 for the Experimental Aero. Then I installed four T-nuts on each and inserted elevator bolts. I moved the 2x10's I attached to the sides of the EAA tables down and they will form a shelf onto which the C-Frames sit and then the elevator bolts can be used to adjust height and level. Here's the result:

NumatxC-FrameBeams.jpg
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ExperimentalAeroC-Frame.jpg
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Both C-Frames mounted with elevator bolts on the bottom.

C-FrameMount.jpg
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NumatxC-FrameShelf.jpg
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Resting on the "shelves."

NumatxC-FrameNotLevel.jpg
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Not flush or level, but I can use the elevator bolts to adjust.

C-FrameTableComplete.jpg
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Works beautifully.

C-FrameExample.jpg
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I can dimple so fast that I need to slow down as it's easy to hit the pedal before the hole is aligned with the dimple die. The result is not good. Just need a steady pace and care.
 
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Webcam

Something else I did since my last post was to upgrade a very old Pentium 4 computer to allow me to install Windows 7, a webcam, and yawcam.com webcam software.

The software allows the webcam to be motion sensitive. Once motion is detected it will activate and take pictures (or video). I'm going to set it up to take a picture every 30 or 60 minutes.

While I don't plan on streaming or otherwise having the pictures automatically post to the Net, it will give me a record of the build and maybe even the ability to create a cool time-lapse video of the build.
 
The Jig is Up!

I know it's not required, especially with the empennage, but I decided to build a jig that I can use for the emp and wings for convenience. I'd need to build another workbench anyway, so why not just build a jig.

I used a hybrid design of two I saw by searching Google and Bing. I'm pretty happy with the result. I put it on lockable wheels that are threaded and go into T-nuts so I can level. The height is such that it won't hit the garage door or opener. It's 114" wide from between the posts. A few things I learned:

1. 2x4's are easier to come by and handle than 4x4's, at least in my area. All the 4x4's are treated for outdoor use and not very straight, at least from the Big Box stores.

2. Lowe's has both Select and Premium 2x4x8's, and the Premiums are much truer - nice and straight. Unfortunately they don't have Premium 2x4x10's.

3. Lumber cut from the center of the tree is generally straighter than those cut from the outside, so look at the ends for that small dot surrounded by tight circles and you're near the center.

4. If you take your time, you can find pretty straight and flat 2x4x10's. Whether it makes a huge difference in the end result of the airfoils I don't know, but it is easier to measure, glue, and build from straight and flat lumber.

5. Elmer's Wood Glue is strong!

Here's the result. I'll modify as needed when I get to the wings.

JigLumberAndParts.jpg


JigClamped2.jpg


JigComplete.jpg
 
Jigs

Nice jig Chris. It should build a good wing. I'm a believer in jigs even on prepunched kits.
Figure out a way to level the wing with "all thread" on each end. It saves a lot of effort.

On my empennage, ailerons and flaps I made smaller jigs from shelving.
 
The build officially begins!

After over a year of planning, preparation, tool acquisition, bench and jig building, multiple practice projects, a SportAir workshop, I finally started working on actual RV-8 parts!

One thing I learned already is that I can easily lose track of time. I got to work and was so focused on making sure I was doing everything right, that I lost track of time. When I thought it was about 10:30pm it was actually 12:30am! Well, still enough time to get some sleep, though of course now the build was swirling around in my head.

HS_MatchDrilled_Bearings.jpg


HS_MatchDrills_BearingsSide.jpg
 
Post Replies

dhc2jeep1 - So far so good with the A/C, but we haven't gotten into the 90's yet. Big test will be when it's 98 degrees daily in August, but regardless, better with than without!

bird - Yes, the belt sander proved to be fantastic when I had to polish the horizontal stab stiffeners. I tried both the Scotchbrite wheel on the bench grinder and the belt sander. Belt sander won hands down!

rightrudder - Thanks! Yes, a lot of wood and woodworking tools. The last time I worked with 2x4's was probably when I was trying to build a tree house at age 12. But there's a large and active woodworking community out there just as there is with kitplane builders, plus all the past experience to leverage from other builders.

wirejock - Thanks! Yeah, the jig just made sense. The existing workbenches are all allocated, so why not build a jig instead of another workbench. Seems like it will be easier and more convenient.

humptybump - My dream setup too, though expensive and time consuming to get going. However, having used it for the practice projects, I know I'd do it again in a heartbeat. And, while expensive, I figure I can sell the Numatx tools to another builder. The 106lb C-Frame will be expensive to ship, but not nearly as much as it was to have fabricated!

Thanks for all of the replies, confirmation of approach, and advice on changes and options!

Chris
 
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