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Splitting the Std Panel

lr172

Well Known Member
I will have two G3X 370's on the left and and avionics stack that will consume most of the panel's vertical stretch. At this point I will have no significant cutouts on rights side (ipad will go there). I have been thinking of splitting the panel in two pieces around the stack and using the structure laid out in the plans. I figured this would give me easier access in the future (currently spoiled from the 6A tipper). However, I see a lot of folks leave the panel as one piece. It would seem like a lot more work getting the panel off in that case, due to the radio trays. I plan to mount the GX23 into the sub-panel on the right side, so would need the panel removed to gain access to it.

curious about the pros and cons here and what others have learned from experience.

Larry
 
I have done this many times. If you are leaving the stock bottom bar, then it?s an easy thing to do. Just put an attachment piece to hold the two together with screws.

The radio stack angles can screw to the panel instead of rivet to make removal easier.

If you aren?t going to have the bottom bar, but make your panel one piece vertically with a bend on the bottom, you just have to make sure you get a good even bend at the bottom of both sides to keep them even.
 
Just put an attachment piece to hold the two together with screws.

Thanks for the input. Not sure that I understand what you are saying. I was thinking of following the method layed out in the plan, as it seemed to be a good design. I will run angle vertically and attach to the stock bottom panel peice as well as the angle in the top skin. Then mount nutplates for the panel attach and used the other leg for radio attachment.

Are you suggesting an additional attachment piece to tie the two panel pieces (left and right) together? I was considering this, as on my plane (QB) the panel pulls down the top skin a bit and am afraid it will bow up a bit with the 6" panel piece missing.

Larry
 
I have been thinking of splitting the panel in two pieces around the stack and using the structure laid out in the plans. I figured this would give me easier access in the future (currently spoiled from the 6A tipper).

Larry

Those big screens pull out easily and give great behind-panel access.

Just saying...
 
Those big screens pull out easily and give great behind-panel access.

Just saying...

Yeah, I thought of that, but was concerned that I will have no cutouts on the right side. I might put another 370 there someday, but for today it will just be an iPad mount. I plan to have my transponder and both EI units behind the right panel.

Larry
 
The radio stack is a great place to split the Panel. That will be adequate to hold the halves together.
 
Considering modern EFIS panel design (like the SkyView) I see no advantage to splitting the panel. I hard mount the radio stack to the panel, with a rear support hinge attached to the GTN-650 that connects to the next forward bulkhead. Pulling the panel completely out of the plane, with the radio stack, involves:
- Removing the two SkyView displays
- Removing the hinge pin on the back of the GTN-650
- Disconnecting the associated D connectors
- Disconnecting the three coax lines from the back of the GTN-650
- Disconnercting 2 Molex power feeds

The panel then comes out as an assembly, perhaps 15 minutes from plane to bench. Everything not associated with the panel (breakers, switches, etc.) are on the apron and that stays in the plane. The Dynon XPDR and Comm radio are mounted behind the panel and stay in the plane.

Considering the radio stack has the most interconnections, having it come out with the panel makes modifications easy.

Carl
 
I'm putting an Aerosport panel in my -10, but looking at the standard QB panel I took out, I see no reason you can't approach a split panel the same way I did on my -6A.

Simply take the standard panel and cut the center away to leave a 1/2 inch or so 'frame' along with two vertical strips. Then make three separate overlay panels using most of the same screw holes. Leave a few holes for the frame only and make them with countersunk screws. This will hold the frame in place.

Here is an old pic of my -6A early panel version with a plexiglas overlay being used to check instrument clearance.

http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/az_gila/media/bWVkaWFJZDo0MjA3NDc3/?ref=

This approach is like the no longer available "Affordable Panels" option and has the advantage of easily allowing upgrade by simply making a new overlay. I did this on my -6A when the D-180 oprion was later changed to a Skyview.
 
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