What's new
Van's Air Force

Don't miss anything! Register now for full access to the definitive RV support community.

Replacing The Windscreen

Geico266

Well Known Member
Has anyone replaced a windscreen?
I have crazing in my windscreen and I?m looking for advice and options to replace it. I noticed some builders have used aluminum fairings, but that was on a 7. Since the cabin is fiberglass I?m assuming that wouldn?t be a good idea? Thoughts? Or just dig out the old one and refiberglass and paint?

As always any thoughts or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
 
Vic Syracuse just did this on his RV-10: if he doesn't come along soon, reach out!

(FYI he looked great covered in plexiglass dust when we did a Facetime session!)
 
Windscreen

I haven't installed it yet but I purchased the aluminum fairing from ML Skunkworks...

On another note, I went with the Cee Bailey windows and windscreen.

I have a stock Van's windscreen that I will not be using and will make a deal on if you want it...

Let me know!

Bob
 
Router with dust extraction is your friend

I did this last year for a customer.

A router with dust extraction made this a straight forward job.
7dzP_V29ohunNNxT3l21_X4DfV4QGDc1USZcQLIcx7BMUqPXZjirFQVUd2kwcVa3AOMDjPzaPGsA085_9cJHZ-GiHzicrkPR1AbdEzNin46E4k1Nou9ZDVSe1Y4tUbV-c9rMDbIoIO64CssOCuFIjk1YMj5eZtRGrZNmlgKxfdQwz-7oVy3kJ-GnsVLCDTqMo3PzYfi6McPgeV0ti1sKoqJPkQvpjYuiTAiRCgjxPegP8_g8QhLhxe8vGEcrUPDjqNO18QvSjawnf9qu6it0moTc-qtHGfEWIH817ahaB15f4uuzDMwoQmiXyvs5_tC4kqmZSHDDdPuslv0NByahYf5qy08oy_SOnC9zkhKKN0vBcXEBvppLROUnEMfwXLkugU9e-T8RY0PoKNByYr0BehczzbkMmrFX9qov98fWYoMrNbROoOzisz6RXrfNflOVCOLSM4xONBshVeHHD0-axGJP2DhM45IEoyZWGjx43OJyc5RWgcP2_iT01tmnWzy86zzWCtkFUeZTTbd1Q-6QMQX2Z_8tVuE7mbJw7EGioCXBBI7WUrbCHocriTs-vZ7N8w1tgmhqvzc-n_5Ie0Dsb7Fszjit7OenGi0JcD3EIoIboyF-Opn3MIrWQ5maINQn8mDt6kvg2zQMFAbFHzqFJ1F0gZ4Y5N60SA=w894-h670-no


R18GhK6kYyaHhPFS4nhC10rruiCigYtuMxFFv5e70OdaGEsHQqYCWfpwE79YRAkjiSTgfyCYhDYJ1dkA1TW2dwVIjQFYyu4dQidW87RxiGwLtoZI_J-dYxiSkdvSsjaDNax50Xi4cH9DTGnmhYi6HnQQuWm9puQzX_TN_UXvkkZkltsu6SMk6SDhHagSSwuO1oZi3BaF0xEWboFdTUdhdsSFZT5BJoWVPWhwRv_YAASo2pWCRLY_3yMhV3J45lpM2pbNaRqTsWj-2SQMNBAzHe1OODBgl7Ap24OOg1UNL7xVBYuD0_I1L4sOmOn_hA4lbd_VfPzk4tnpRA9pgKHF0z3h4f-rBnDlFC9lppmbZGtyfgs3GeGYrnFDZjgMPk5wDn_QCIyu-3rD8hl_c0jzNk7iZMmXhi9sA3HA5Wzj47-3TeCEHCDXZ6cqsDkTWtGrKIsyynhS4WEfjDNGl_I5b3lPSX1JaR1gTaPI0wYXTh3ido6FDwQUO9nZZq2cPmyemmVkr4vrfc8aaY1ZMZbVjCRByWKopESPjwUyOucZ4YiDE2IvskSamHmPgtrqBjOJQWO25xU8rI2PfNq46urQD8LbkWMacWGQxETCKUYQ4K32FmxDCNRYdToll2X0gtrS3tiFAyMSv-1_TnpQ6Zegv2YtkXD3QTkz-Q=w894-h670-no


The Cee Baileys windscreen was a great drop in replacement with hardly no trimming required and that annoying bulge in the lower r/h corner like the Vans screen has,was not there.
 
Yes, I just did mine, and used a router for the top cut and a cutoff wheel for the front. Interesting that i used the Cee Bailey windscreen and mine had the annoying bump on the lower right side. I didn't think that was supposed to be there.

I used Sika flex to reinstall rather than the weldon. It was less messy and longer working time.

Vic
 
Yes, I just did mine, and used a router for the top cut and a cutoff wheel for the front. Interesting that i used the Cee Bailey windscreen and mine had the annoying bump on the lower right side. I didn't think that was supposed to be there.

I used Sika flex to reinstall rather than the weldon. It was less messy and longer working time.

Vic

Cee Bailey advertises them without the bump. :confused:
Over all was it a good upgrade for a replacement?
No trimming?

Thanks Vic!
 
What are the techniques for separating what's left after the rough cut from the glue joint? Also are the techniques adhesive dependent (Sika vs weld-on vs Lord)?
 
Wind shield?

What is the reason that you guys are replacing your windshields? Mine is 8 years and 1000+ of flight hrs. old and still looks nice and clear. It scares to think that I should have to replace it in the future.
 
What is the reason that you guys are replacing your windshields? Mine is 8 years and 1000+ of flight hrs. old and still looks nice and clear. It scares to think that I should have to replace it in the future.

Crazing from previous owner using the wrong cleaner I presume.

Vic? Flying too much, wore it out. ;)
 
Last edited:
I don't know why mine crazed. It got really bad. The interesting thing is that there is another RV-10 on the field that is the same vintage (2009) and it's windshield is crazing with the same pattern.
Why did I replace it? Carol said she wouldn't go to Alaska with me this summer unless I replaced it. Too much beautiful scenery to miss.

Vic
 
Last edited:
One of the common links to the crazing problem is the use of Weldon. I realized this early on when I joined this forum and started reading all the posts about it. No way would I go near the stuff building my RV-10. When I had my C-152, I replaced all the transparencies and had to fabricate and install a thick plexi mounting block for the compass. I used Weldon to glue the block to the windscreen and within a couple months crazing started to develop under the mounting block. Sickening to see all my hard work and money I spent for the new windscreen being slowly blemished by a glue! When I was in the Canard camp, the Rutan method of bedding the transparencies in thick epoxy/flox mix, then topping with a couple layers of BID tape was the standard installation process. I never read a report of this leading to crazing, and the Cozy MKIV transparencies look as good today as the day we installed them almost 15 years ago. That's how I installed the transparencies in my RV-10, and I am confident the the new owner will never need to replace them for crazing reasons.
 
Last edited:
The only instances of crazing I have seen with the use of Weldon was when localized pressure was induced by the use of clamps.

Weldon was originally chosen, not because it was the only thing that would work, but because that is what Lancair used on the ES and 4P at the time.

It was assumed that if it was good enough for a pressurized aircraft it would be good for the RV-10.

Static load tests of the cabin top proved that the strong bond produced by the Weldon provided structural benefits for cabin integrity (further evidenced by the need for a router to remove a wind screen or side window).
 
The only instances of crazing I have seen with the use of Weldon was when localized pressure was induced by the use of clamps.

Weldon was originally chosen, not because it was the only thing that would work, but because that is what Lancair used on the ES and 4P at the time.

It was assumed that if it was good enough for a pressurized aircraft it would be good for the RV-10.

Static load tests of the cabin top proved that the strong bond produced by the Weldon provided structural benefits for cabin integrity (further evidenced by the need for a router to remove a wind screen or side window).

No clamps or anything when I glued the two plexi pieces together yet it still crazed. Any ideas why?
 
No clamps or anything when I glued the two plexi pieces together yet it still crazed. Any ideas why?

No
Other than maybe the FAA has more influence than we could ever imagine, when changes are made to Certificated aircraft, that weren't part of the original type certificate? :rolleyes:
 
For a good tutorial on how to install windshields using Silpruf sealant, a product similar to Sikaflex, go to youtube and search on "Glastar windshield installation". There is a series of videos on this topic, narrated by Zach Chase of Fibertech Composites of Stuart, Florida. He's a master of the technique.

By the way, this technique has been used on many Glasair aircraft, including the low-wing Glasairs, Glastars and the Sportsman. So far there has been one reported failure of the adhesive bond, and that failure has been attributed (by the aircraft builder himself) to the use of Silpruf which was within the last few days of its shelf life.
 
No
Other than maybe the FAA has more influence than we could ever imagine, when changes are made to Certificated aircraft, that weren't part of the original type certificate? :rolleyes:

Actually these were type certificated parts and the Weldon was specified and supplied by the manufacturer of the windscreen for installing the compass mount that came with it. I just needed to modify the compass mount taht was supplied by the mfg. because it required a bit of modification to fit the really cool SIRS mounting holes pattern. The mount did not craze, just the windscreen. The crazing started under the mount/glue location and slowly spread to about an inch beyond the mount. One of the common denominators of crazing is the use of Weldon. May or may not be builder/application error but I wouldn't touch that stuff again with a 10' pole after my experience. And I followed manufacturers instructions to the letter.
 
Nine years (installed mid-2008) and 1050 hours and my windscreen still looks pretty much like new. Used Weldon and followed Vans instructions very carefully. Plexus has been used almost exclusively for cleaning.
 
Last edited:
possible cause of crazing

We contacted LP Aero plastics regarding the crazing on our RV10 windshield. They said the cause was the use of automobile reflective inserts on the inside of the plexiglass. They said there is a chemical reaction from the materials in the sunshields that causes the crazing.

Even Bruce's custom cover's does not recommend the use of their internal sun shields for more than a couple of hours at a time..."We would only recommend using sun shields 'HeatShields' for temporary use during day trips or for a couple of hours at a time during a short layover. If used too frequently over time, the silver reflective surface can cause damage to your Plexiglas windscreen and laminated windshields as it traps heat in between your glass and the HeatShield."
 
Back
Top