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Old 01-18-2019, 05:36 PM
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rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 8,912

Originally Posted by cook_ts View Post
1- I have my pedal assy located per plans (even though I drilled for two more positions). Also noting that if this position changes, so will the cable length.

2- I used a length of 1" angle zip tied around the lower petal beams to keep all aligned. In doing so, this also 'locks' the forward/aft movement/position of the pedals- Note- This is the ONLY way to get 'tension' in the cables. Without restraining all pedals, there will be no tension.

3- I use a length of 6-32 threaded rod and fender washers slipped through the counterbalance gap at the top of the rudder/vertical to hold the rudder at neutral (and also the elevators/horizontal).

4- In doing all this, my lengths are longer than expected- 3.1" & 3.5" hole to hole.

5- As mentioned, the actual lengths are not that critical, but need to make sure the rudder pedals don’t hit the firewall at full travel. I am only repeating this because you also need to consider include brake petals as well.

6- Going back to point 4, although I am happy with the rigging, one issue I had given the length of the links, the swedged end of the cable actually snags on the first guide hole. Still working a solution for this.
Are you building an RV-12? That is what this conversation was about ( the 12 is a little bit different from the others.
Opinions, information and comments are my own unless stated otherwise. They do not necessarily represent the direction/opinions of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Van's Aircraft Engineering Prototype Shop Manager
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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