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Work table size?

tcbetka

Active Member
Hi all,

Getting ready to start on the RV-10 as soon as the empennage kit arrives. I need to build a work table for the project, as I really don't have a good surface of any significant size. Since the tail kit won't be here for another couple of weeks, I have some time. But what's the "optimal" size for such a table?

Watching a number of YouTube build channels, I've seen a variety of table sizes. I was sort of thinking about just using the full length of a sheet of plywood, but maybe cutting the width down to like 32-36"...something like that. Much wider than 36" and you can't really reach across it easily, I've found.

I am also planning to build a little table/shelf over the DRDT-2 frame, so that I can support the skins being dimpled. I'll be doing the vast majority of the work on my own for this project, so having ergonomic work surfaces will be a huge help.

Thanks for any tips you guys might offer.

TB
 
TB-

I built two workbenches 6'x3' and found they worked nicely for my RV-12 build. Built a third smaller workbench not quite as deep dedicated to power tools ... Scotch-Brite wheel station, drill press, band saw and grinder.

Suggest once you have decided on the size bench you are going with plan on having the top surface of the workbench overlap the base by 4" to 6" to allow for easy clamping of thicker items to the work surface ... if you have no overlapping edge, the top will be sitting on a 2x4 ... so you lose 4" of clamping ability from all your clamps.

Depending on your age, you may also want to consider making at least one of your benches lower than standard so you can sit on a rolling mechanics stool and do most of the work like deburring, countersinking and riveting of small parts and assemblies while seated .... without the need to lean over the bench for hours while standing. In fact, I made both my workbenches low ... it is easy to raise them when it is necessary.

Suggest you also consider placing the workbench(s) on sturdy locking wheels. You will find yourself needing to move the benches around during various phases of the build. In fact, I placed everything on wheels all three workbenches, plans table and parts rack ... made rearranging the shop a snap.

Happy building,
 
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For the RV-10 I liked the following setup:
- one 8?x3? table, 36? tall
- one 8?x3? table, 26? tall
- one 4?x6? table, 36? tall on wheels

The table on wheels was the ?do the sub assembly? table. The 36? tall table was for things like wing assembly. The 26? tall table was exactly right for stuff like fitting out the RV-10 tail cone and then mating with the forward fuselage section.

Carl
 
TB-

I built two workbenches 6'x3' and found they worked nicely for my RV-12 build. Built a third smaller workbench not quite as deep dedicated to power tools ... Scotch-Brite wheel station, drill press, band saw and grinder.

Suggest once you have decided on the size bench you are going with plan on having the top surface of the workbench overlap the base by 4" to 6" to allow for easy clamping of thicker items to the work surface ... if you have no overlapping edge, the top will be sitting on a 2x4 ... so you lose 4" of clamping ability from all your clamps.

Depending on your age, you may also want to consider making at least one of your benches lower than standard so you can sit on a rolling mechanics stool and do most of the work like deburring, countersinking and riveting of small parts and assemblies while seated .... without the need to lean over the bench for hours while standing. In fact, I made both my workbenches low ... it is easy to raise them when it is necessary.

Suggest you also consider placing the workbench(s) on sturdy locking wheels. You will find yourself needing to move the benches around during various phases of the build. In fact, I placed everything on wheels all three workbenches, plans table and parts rack ... made rearranging the shop a snap.

Happy building,

Thanks John--good tips. I sit for pretty much everything, for the most part. Two fake knees and a stiff back taught me the value of a good work stool many years ago. I also do a fair bit of welding, and of course it's much easier to stabilize one's hand(s) while seated.

TB
 
For the RV-10 I liked the following setup:
- one 8’x3’ table, 36” tall
- one 8’x3’ table, 26” tall
- one 4’x6’ table, 36” tall on wheels

The table on wheels was the “do the sub assembly” table. The 36’ tall table was for things like wing assembly. The 26” tall table was exactly right for stuff like fitting out the RV-10 tail cone and then mating with the forward fuselage section.

Carl

I like your 8' x 3' table size Carl, thanks. That's pretty much what I was thinking too. I have a 36" x 72" rolling table now, for just what was mentioned by John--power tools and what-not. Good also for "overflow" assembly.

I just sold a lathe in my shop today, and the buyer picked it up. I have a 10" lathe left, and a Bridgeport mill, but this 13" lathe wasn't being used and I needed the room...so I sold it. Now that it's gone though, it's time to get serious about building a work table for the pending work. I also have a 36" Pexto sheet metal shear that I had been trying to sell, before I decided to build the RV-10. Luckily, every person who was "interested" either wanted to trade me a bunch of **** I had absolutely no use for (who in the heck wants a VW Bug restoration project?!?), or they'd say "Well...I really wanted a 48" shear" and pass. So it never sold--I guess things happen for a reason, because now that the lathe is gone, I have plenty of room to set the thing in that spot and actually be able to use it and the back gauge I have for it!

I also just ordered a bunch of tools for the build too. Man, how did I ever get along without a pneumatic rivet set, lol... I still have a hand squeezer for edge-riveting, but I'll be using the pneumatic setter as much as possible, I can tell you that.

TB

EDIT: I forgot to mention that I found some plans for the EAA Worktable, and plan to base this worktable on those. At least it gives me something to go on. I'll just scale them to the 3'x8' size in Solidworks, and come up with a BOM...then knock it out.
 
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Work Tables

I have way too many tables and they are all filled with tools and parts. The more you have just creates an opportunity to not put stuff away and just let it pile up. You do not need the table space I have.

I had two solid core doors laying around so that dictated the table depth at 30 inches which works well for me. But I do not have anything stored on the back of the table, like bins of storage trays. I need / want the entire 30" for the work I am doing.

1) 30x76" - 35" tall EAA style base
2) 30x80 - 35" tall EAA style base
3) 30x59 - 35" tall has a 1/4" steel plate on half of it and it is on wheels
4) 30x30 - 31" tall for vice, belt sander and drill press and band saw
5) 4x8 sheet of plywood on an old kitchen table so it is 30 3/4" tall.
 
EAA Chapter 1000 published plans for a workbench measuring 24?x60.? I like the narrow width but wanted more length, so I made two benches 24?x90? from one piece of 4?x8? plywood. As John suggests, I made the support frame a few inches narrower than the top to make clamping easier. The benches are easy to move around the garage, and when I need something wider, I push the two benches next to each other for a single work surface 48 inches wide.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm
 
I have way too many tables and they are all filled with tools and parts. The more you have just creates an opportunity to not put stuff away and just let it pile up.... SNIP

Boy, ain't that the truth...

Two tables is all I'm going to have. I have a couple U-Line work "desk"-type tables, but those are not going to be used for building per se. But the one table that's on rollers will have power tools bolted to it, thus making it easier to move to a convenient location depending upon the work being accomplished at the time.

TB
 
EAA Chapter 1000 published plans for a workbench measuring 24?x60.? I like the narrow width but wanted more length, so I made two benches 24?x90? from one piece of 4?x8? plywood. As John suggests, I made the support frame a few inches narrower than the top to make clamping easier. The benches are easy to move around the garage, and when I need something wider, I push the two benches next to each other for a single work surface 48 inches wide.

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/worktabl.htm

http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/worktabl/tablefig.htm

I like a 2-3" overhang to clamp stuff on, indeed. All the tables I have built have at least two edges like that. So I'll adjust the plans accordingly. By using Solidworks, you can easily generate a BOM for the project--which makes it much easier if you have someone helping you on the project.

TB
 
I built two EAA benches. I put a shoulder of sorts on one so that my DRDT-2 fits on the end at the right height to dimple with the table holding the work on a table-size workbox pad. I liked it because I could put the tables on length to hold a long thing, or on a 90 for others. I also took a large MDF piece and screwed it to both of them to make a single table for a large part of the build. The MDF overhung for clamps and such and when I drilled holes in it I didn't care too much. I took it on and off a few times. MDF has the advantage of being dead flat if you screw it to even surfaces.

Then HF had their wood workbenches on sale. I got two of those. Great for general purpose, and for drill press and all. But all the building was on the EAA benches. Super sturdy zero hassle.
 
Just me

I built one of the EAA bench with 2” overhang and Melamine top. It has worked out really well. The overhang is a must to clamp down parts for riveting. Got a separate table tied to the wall with a vise for hack sawing parts, emphasis on “hack”. I also built a mini eaa bench with a lazy susan for the drill press, grinder and belt sander. This work out really well too. I have moved both around my shop to every corner, depending on what I am building.
 
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MDF has the advantage of being dead flat if you screw it to even surfaces.
MDF would make an excellent top for an EAA bench. In addition to being flat it is very heavy which would make the EAA bench rock solid. Far superior to particle board and less expensive than a quality sheet of plywood. I would highly recommend you use 1" thick MDF if you have a local source for it (not typically available at Lowes or Home Depot).
 
MDF would make an excellent top for an EAA bench. In addition to being flat it is very heavy which would make the EAA bench rock solid. Far superior to particle board and less expensive than a quality sheet of plywood. I would highly recommend you use 1" thick MDF if you have a local source for it (not typically available at Lowes or Home Depot).

We don't have a source for MDF that thick around here, not that I've ever seen. What does work well though, is to use 3/4" plywood...and then a 3/16" piece of MDF adhered to the top of the plywood using construction adhesive. It takes a little extra work, but it turns out very well.

The secret I've found to doing it *neatly* is to just use the full 4x8' sheets of the two materials (or at least several inches oversize), and then cut straight and to size with a circular saw once the construction adhesive cures overnight. Otherwise you never seem to get the adhesive (eg; Liquid Nails) spread evenly near the edges of the material(s), so there are loose spots around the perimeter. So I just make the pieces an inch or two oversize, and then trim/cut to size later. Works great.

I've modeled the work table in Solidworks and will get over to Home Depot tomorrow, weather-permitting, to pick up the materials.

One more question: Do you guys put small (lockable) casters on the legs of your work table? While it's certainly convenient to move the table around as needed, it can be a bit of a pain in the butt when you need to press against the thing.

TB
 
I put two casters on one side of each table. The caster is on the side of the leg. When I pick up the non-caster side the caster is rotated and rolling is possible like a wheelbarrow. Lots of examples of casters around; if you caster it all the time it is not nearly as stable. Leg on floor is best for work.
 
I put two casters on one side of each table. The caster is on the side of the leg. When I pick up the non-caster side the caster is rotated and rolling is possible like a wheelbarrow. Lots of examples of casters around; if you caster it all the time it is not nearly as stable. Leg on floor is best for work.

That's probably a great plan, now that you mention it. My shop isn't all that big (20x32'), so the 8' long table won't really have too many places it could be rolled to anyway. So I'm thinking that, to start anyway, I won't install casters.

Saw your signature by the way--I was board-certified in Family Medicine, and then spent the last 8-9 years of my career doing Wound Care & Hyperbaric Medicine. Retired in 2012.

Thanks for your input.

TB
 
In my shop I have a 96x30 workbench against the wall and a 96x48 rolling table (MDF top with a sacrificial layer of white wallboard on top of that and storage beneath). My wings and fuselage are also in rolling cradles, though I wish the fuselage was a bit lower.

I also have a ~30x18 rolling table at standing work height, with my bandsaw, bench grinder, drill press, and mini bending brake. It's a mite top-heavy but it works well.

Even with all that I'm cramped for space at the moment; I still have the finishing kit crate sitting there protecting my canopy and cowl. Really want to get those done. A lean-to shed for the outdoor equipment would be nice too.
 
Besides the work table(s) I have in the shop, I also have three other "tables" (all with casters). One is a smallish welding table (RhinoCart) and the other two are tool chests--the best one there is a used Snap-On cart with a hardwood top. I bought that from a guy who bought it from an aircraft mechanic, and he worked on the hardwood top all the time. So it's surprisingly useful as a work surface actually. You can't really bolt/secure anything to the hardwood top because it's just sitting on the metal frame of the cabinet, but otherwise it's a great work area--and the Snap-On cabinets are incredibly easy to push around.

The gist of all of this though, is that I'm pretty much out of space to add more than the one work table I'm going to build. There's only so many places you can put some of this stuff in a shop, lol...

TB
 
More workbench is better than too little. Can't have too much, as long as you can still move around the project.

The best top is that white melamine-coated particle board that the big box stores sells. Because it's slightly hard and smooth, metal particles don't dig in to gouge things. It can be brushed off, or when it gets dirty, scrubbed or wiped down with lacquer thinner.

There's a simpler work bench in the Tips section. I posted the instructions. I've built eight of these so far, including one for a cart for my Big Green Egg barbecue. They hold up well and the top can be flipped over for a fresh surface if desired.

Dave
 
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Another consideration would be to build a bench/cabinet instead of a table. By this I mean something with a combination of drawers, doors and shelves. I found free plans on line and customized them to build the bench to fit my needs. You can see and hear about my bench in the first two minutes of this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juqb6kyVNwY

I believe I still have the plans. If interested, I can email you pictures.
 
More workbench is better than too little. Can't have too much, as long as you can still move around the project.

The best top is that white melamine-coated particle board that the big box stores sells. Because it's slightly hard and smooth, metal particles don't dig in to gouge things. It can be brushed off, or when it gets dirty, scrubbed or wiped down with lacquer thinner.

There's a simpler work bench in the Tips section. I posted the instructions. I've built eight of these so far, including one for a cart for my Big Green Egg barbecue. They hold up well and the top can be flipped over for a fresh surface if desired.

Dave

I like the 2x6 idea, for the top runners. I already implemented that in my Solidworks model. Since the table is 8' long, I wanted a little more support for the top since I was only planning to use legs at the four corners.

As for the melamine-coated particle board, I'll have to look at Home Depot here. I've actually looked for it there before and they've usually be either out-of-stock, or the stuff they had was in bad condition. What I usually end up doing is either using a piece of "milkhouse board" (FRP) that's 0.090" thick, or just using a 3/16" sheet of MDF. Either has to be secured in place somehow, and the easiest way to do that is to simply use some sort of construction adhesive. The problem there though is that it's a bugger to remove when it comes time to replace it--so I sometimes just countersink flush screws in the MDF, and that seems to work OK. I'm not sure what I'll do in this cast though, as I haven't gotten that far.

TB
 
Another consideration would be to build a bench/cabinet instead of a table. By this I mean something with a combination of drawers, doors and shelves. I found free plans on line and customized them to build the bench to fit my needs. You can see and hear about my bench in the first two minutes of this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juqb6kyVNwY

I believe I still have the plans. If interested, I can email you pictures.

Wow--that's a great shop! And that drawered-bench looks incredible. But dude, you're a furniture maker. I'm not...lol. It would probably take me as much time to build a bench with all those drawers, as it would for me to actually build the empennage for the RV-10.

Seriously though--beautiful shop! I need to check your channel to see if you ever put up a video on "site B".

Thanks for posting.

TB
 
Beautiful shop!

Comment on the 3/4" ply that the video said that work bench was made of.... 1/2" ply is fine for drawers and backs of cabinets.

Also, I needed space for putting skins and panels and things like that. I added some drawers on two of my workbenches but still left a clear shelf at the bottom, as much as I could, for storage. I'm using every bit of that, too.

I leave the kit boxes out in the hangar and bring home what I need to work on. At this stage in the project, canoe betting built up, there's a lot here at the house. The engine, cowl, etc., are not at the house.

I'm building a -3. With an RV-10, the build sequence is more defined so that might be easier. But some friends with an RV-10 QB needed to find places for the engine and fuselage when they were finishing the wings.

Dave
 
I built two 4x8 foot tables that worked fine in a hangar, or in a shop where you can access both sides. In my garage, where I had to move them up against the wall, it was sometimes hard to reach things that found their way to the back. When I retired and no longer had the benefit of the company paying for the $1/lb move, I let them go with another project when I left California for Michigan. The hangar at my current home came with about 18 feet of 24-inch wide melamine countertop along one wall. The width seems adequate, but just barely. If I ever replace them, I think I?ll go to at least 30-inch width.

Whatever size you build, let the work surface overhang the frame by about 2 inches in front and on at least one side to allow for clamping of workpieces. IMHO, the lack of overhang is the biggest drawback of building EAA Chapter 1000 benches exactly to plan.
 
Thanks Tom. I confess, that bench build took some time, but had I built it to the original plans, it would have taken 1/2 the time. Lots of good advice here, I am sure you can build something nice that will fit your needs.

Site B...I have not been there for quite some time. Will be posting a video soon on my channel explaining why. However, I am getting back on track and will do an intro vid. out there in due time.
 
I am in the process of setting up my shop prior to building a 14A. I will be using my shop in the basement and have been trying to design a functional layout. I plan on building 2 EAA benches with 1.5" overhangs that will allow easy clamping together when required. Due to the distance along one of my walls, 54" long benches together will fit perfect. My question is if there are any reasons why they call for 60" benches? Will I regret not having those extra 6" on each bench?
 
For height, you can use a full-height work table along with a bar stool (get a swiveling one) if you need to sit down. That way you'll have both the ability to stand or to sit.

Don't make it lower than you're used to unless a particular task needs that. Don't take my word for this; ask your back.

Dave
 
You will end up needing 125% of whatever workspace you have.
(I used a smallish butcher block table that could crank up and down.)
I then joined a large HF furniture dolly with a small HF furniture dolly with a couple of 2x2's for a movable fuselage canoe dolly.
 
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