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Finally! Rib Deburring made easy....DIY

On my last batch I used some adhesive-backed sandpaper wrapped around a popsicle stick. This looks easier. Great tip!
 
For your viewing pleasure!!

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Take 1 inch scotchbrite wheel and cut into pie pieces. Then thread pie piece onto threaded Dremel adapter. Finally, shape scotchbrite pie piece into a cone. Then debur away......1000x faster.

Below are the links to the pictures, i couldn't figure out how to post a pic from google photos. So the link will have to do!

https://goo.gl/photos/ha6eTqVawzPG6fhy5
https://goo.gl/photos/fyCq1sSnCA1KRNmJ7

Oh my god this makes me so happy I want to buy you an ice cream cone! I have literally had nightmares about deburring wing ribs that are being packaged at Van's soon.:D
 
Here is my tool of choice for deburring:

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The groove that gets worn into the wheel is a good thing and eventually you will be above to deburr both sides of the stock with one pass. The 2" Scotchbrite wheel and mandrel for the die grinder is available at sources that sell "RV" tools.

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Wear time?

To the OP -- brilliant idea! How quickly do they wear. I am long past this point, but still curious for any remaining small area demurring.

Re the Cratex points, I used these too, but found that they wear really quickly.
 
Scotchbrite DIY longevity!

I have had great success with this tool. The first pie piece lasted me both LH/RH Horizontal stab ribs, and still have enough to to the VS. I believe I can make 5-6 pieces per wheel, so one wheel should do all wing ribs as well. I think it is safe to say that I have saved at least 40% of time spent on rib deburring.......
 
Thanks for sharing! Especially because I planned to do the wing ribs this weekend. Just in time!
 
Erik how did you cut the pieces out? Did you just use a band saw? I ask because I have tried to cut these for a different reason and they are always tough on things.
 
Cutting scotchbrite wheel

The best way I found to cut the wheel, was to change my bandsaw blade (which comes standard with all purpose blade) to a metal cutting blade. And then just two cuts to the center of the wheel....Wah La !
 
The best way I found to cut the wheel, was to change my bandsaw blade (which comes standard with all purpose blade) to a metal cutting blade. And then just two cuts to the center of the wheel....Wah La !

Awesome Erik thanks!
 
Cool idea, Erik! How did you shape the Scotch-Brite into a cone?

Thanks!

I have shaped entire scotchbrite wheels (to get rid of grooves) by doing the following which will work in this case too. I put small wheel on die grinder (in this case it will be dremel) then take it to my rotating scotchbrite bench grinder wheel and shape the small one. I make sure they are spinning opposite directions of each other. This works extremely well but definitely make sure you are wearing eye and lung protection as a lot of dust flies! It also did not make any dent what so ever in the big scotchbrite wheel on the bench grinder so you don't have to worry about spending that $78 bucks again.
 
Perfect timing. I just laid out all the wing ribs yesterday in advance of starting to prepare them, and I might try this method.
 
This is indeed a great idea. Made my own right after seeing this thread, and using this technique a LOT for all the scalloped fuselage parts. I found the scotchbrite wheel easy to cut with a hacksaw and used the bench grinder and dremel to shape. I go through them fairly quickly... but definitely the right tool for the job.
 
Just to add a little ... cutting the wheel is easy. A utility knife slices right through it. The wedges are double wide, you can split them and get two triangles. Screw the dremel mandrel in (I didn't even use a pilot hole). I shaped the cone by hand to rough shape on a bench grinder wheel. Then chucked it into the dremel and ran it against the wheel to final shape.

I am flying through rib prep now, IMHO this should be a sticky in tips- this is as big of a breakthrough as when I got my scotchbrite wheels.
 
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Thank you

I am extremely happy you all have found this useful. Thanks for all the wonderful comments. I hope all rv model builders benefit from this thread as well.....
 
I gave this a shot tonight, and wasn't to happy with the results. After spending the time to cut and shape a cone, it lasted maybe 1 or 2 ribs, before I had to cut and shape another cone. I ended up with scotchbrite wheel dust EVERYWHERE and spent more time making the cones than I did getting anything done.

I am not sure I am using the right material. I have a bunch of these:
http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html

(The 5AFN part number).

They are pretty soft, and do great when I put them in my drill press to deburr the edges of the lightening holes.

Were my troubles due to using the wrong scotchbrite wheel to make the cones? Can someone that has used this method with success link me to the wheels you are using?

I am seriously considering going out and buying a 1" belt sander to get in these grooves.
 
I'm using this one with success:

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/3M-Cut-Polish-Wheel-1/productinfo/3MW7A1/#.WVzXEFGQy70

After cutting the wedge out using a bandsaw, I mount it in my Dremel and turn the Dremel on to a low speed. I then use the larger 6" Scotchbrite wheel on my grinder to shape the wedge. The wedge is turning the opposite direction of the wheel.

I've found that there is very little dust. In fact, I don't even need to wear a mask or clean up. The only thing that I have found is that I can't make the pieces last like KC
10 does. Even so, I find that this is a time saver and will continue to use.

Hope that helps!!

Fred
 
I gave this a shot tonight, and wasn't to happy with the results. After spending the time to cut and shape a cone, it lasted maybe 1 or 2 ribs, before I had to cut and shape another cone. I ended up with scotchbrite wheel dust EVERYWHERE and spent more time making the cones than I did getting anything done.

I am not sure I am using the right material. I have a bunch of these:
http://www.surplussales.com/Tools-Accessories/T-Aabrasives.html

(The 5AFN part number).

They are pretty soft, and do great when I put them in my drill press to deburr the edges of the lightening holes.

Were my troubles due to using the wrong scotchbrite wheel to make the cones? Can someone that has used this method with success link me to the wheels you are using?

I am seriously considering going out and buying a 1" belt sander to get in these grooves.

Lynn I have them same wheels, they are way too soft. I only use them for a last minute polish on things. You need the wheels that Fred mentioned, they are quite a bit harder and definitely do a better job at deburring (I use these first and then finish up with the softer ones). I will also add that this technique of making the cones didn't satisfy me entirely, unfortunately I still do the good ole flossing technique with 400 grit strips about 1/4" wide.
 
3M 03173 light rust stripper wheel. Avaliable on Amazon and in stock at the auto dept at Wally World. It's a mandrel mounted version of the ubiquitous maroon pad, slightly stiffer. Similar texture as soon as it's worn in.

Chuck it in the drill press and does wonders on the nooks and crannies. I use this on the outside and deburring cones on the inside corners where I can't get to them. Doesn't last forever but it's worth it.

With the combo my aileron ribs took about 15 minutes last night. Would have been hours with a file and sandpaper.
 
Chuck,
Did you end up using one of those 03173 wheels to cut up and make the "deburring cones" for getting in the small grooves between the flange tabs?

I'm about to head out to home depot / Lowes / Ace / Wal-mart to see what I can come up with.
 
Don't use Silicon carbide

Tyconnell........I can't remember where I heard it, but was told not to mix silicon carbide with aluminum. FYI.... maybe someone can confirm or correct!
 
Tyconnell........I can't remember where I heard it, but was told not to mix silicon carbide with aluminum. FYI.... maybe someone can confirm or correct!

You had me scared for a second - check Gil's post (#8) on this thread.

TL;DR - NASA says it's OK.

Though a similarly shaped attachment in Aluminum Oxide would probably be preferable.
 
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Awesome info on cross contamination

Tyconnell.... What a great post. Thanks for the awesome info, will forever remember....This thread has turned out to be very informative.
 
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