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Lycoming Engine TBO

FlyingBanker

Well Known Member
Patron
I bought my 2001 RV-6A a year ago with 930hrs on the airframe and engine. I did that with the understanding that the TBO for the O-360-A1A engine was 2,000 hrs. This week, I was prompted by an ad I saw to go look at the Lycoming site and specifically at the Service Instructions for TBO. I was surprised to find that there is also a 12-year recommendation regardless of time. At least, that's how I am reading it. Is this accurate? If so, my plane already has 18+ years of service. Last condition inspection was done by Vic Syracuse and all compressions were good, no metal found in oil or filter. Last oil analysis was good. Is this something I need to address in the near future as opposed to what I thought was still several years off?
 
Yes and no...
Mine is 25 yrs and 1300TT.......running well.
Just be aware of the facts and maintain accordingly.
I pretty much think the 12 yr recommendation is for soft parts getting hard.
So change them when you get a chance...
example: oil drain back tubes from valve covers
intake tube connectors and clamps
intake tube gaskets at the head.
valve cover gaskets
nose seals, if they start leaking.
Mags and ignition wires as they wearout.
Fuel lines every 5 yrs unless they are the permenant ones.
You get the picture....
ohh and fly as often as you can....the engines love to run.
The above is my opinion, others can chime in too.
 
The other side of the coin is that Lycoming has approved TBO extensions of 200 hrs. on many engines provided they are operated 40 hrs/ mo. or more. Bottom line as we all know, these engines need to be flown, and frequently. The 12 year recommended overhaul period is a CYA for Lycoming. I would not be concerned with your engine if it has been flown on a regular basis. Any extended period of inactivity may be a cause for concern. As Bob mentioned, it is important to replace hoses, seals, and gaskets as necessary. An oil analysis program can also provide a heads up to any potential problem. Exercise prudent maintenance practices and enjoy your RV!
 
time......

I?ve got 3000hr SMOH on a pair of Lycoming IO540?s with 20,000hr total time. Good oil pressure, compression, and good oil analysis. The risk is that there will be less reusable parts at overhaul. However, I may be 80yrs old then and it will be somebody?s else?s monkey.....


I bought my 2001 RV-6A a year ago with 930hrs on the airframe and engine. I did that with the understanding that the TBO for the O-360-A1A engine was 2,000 hrs. This week, I was prompted by an ad I saw to go look at the Lycoming site and specifically at the Service Instructions for TBO. I was surprised to find that there is also a 12-year recommendation regardless of time. At least, that's how I am reading it. Is this accurate? If so, my plane already has 18+ years of service. Last condition inspection was done by Vic Syracuse and all compressions were good, no metal found in oil or filter. Last oil analysis was good. Is this something I need to address in the near future as opposed to what I thought was still several years off?
 
Keep flying

The more you fly Jim the less time you waste digging. The best rust prevention program is a daily exercise :)
 
TBO

TBO is mandatory for commercial operators. EAB is on condition. Hoses are at life expectancy at 12 years, Accessories usually are also getting tired at that age. Soooo, if you have a high calendar engine, perhaps invest $20 for oil analysis, do a " wiggle" test on guides, and be sure to inspect suction screen. I ran a Lycoming 0-360 to 3700 hours, looked great inside, but ran regularly and in a dry environment.
 
TBO

Good advice posted. Change all the rubber parts and check the valve guides. Every few years I like to get into the forward end of the crank to clean out the sludge and check for corrosion.

Don Broussard A&P-IA
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
Good advice posted. Change all the rubber parts and check the valve guides. Every few years I like to get into the forward end of the crank to clean out the sludge and check for corrosion.

Don Broussard A&P-IA
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer

Hi Don can you elaborate on the forward end of the crank inspection?

I just replaced accessories, hoses, gaskets, etc and the 0-360 A1A I run is humming with good compressions. Good compressions, borescope, valves look good, guides etc.

But I'd like to keep going and going.....Thanks!!!!
 
If you have a csp, the area of the crankshaft around the prop hub is hollow. This is where oil is collected to control the pitch changes of the prop blades. This oil stays there and is not changed with an engine oil change. It can/does get gunked up in that area. If you have a fixed pitch prop, not a concern. If you have a csp, just clean it out when you replace your alternator belt.
 
Oil Lines

I'm going to replace fuel and oil lines. Can anyone recommend a good brand and a supplier? Also, are the fancy braided stainless lines sold at automotive stores suitable for a Lycoming? Limited budget here so price is a consideration. Thanks.
 
I'm going to replace fuel and oil lines. Can anyone recommend a good brand and a supplier?

Only one place to consider and that's Tom Swearengen at TS Flightlines. Check advertisers index on the left side of page to find him. Just did all of my FWF fuel hoses last week with Tom's help.
 
I'm going to replace fuel and oil lines. Can anyone recommend a good brand and a supplier? Also, are the fancy braided stainless lines sold at automotive stores suitable for a Lycoming? Limited budget here so price is a consideration. Thanks.

Tom at TS is great or Steve at aircraftspecialty.com. I love the online ordering at aircraftspecialty. They are partners as well so I don't feel bad picking one over the other anymore.
 
Tom is making my airplane a new set of arteries and veins,

as we speak (write?) --- looking forward to the changeout!

Ron
 
I'm going to replace fuel and oil lines. Can anyone recommend a good brand and a supplier? Also, are the fancy braided stainless lines sold at automotive stores suitable for a Lycoming? Limited budget here so price is a consideration. Thanks.

+1 for TS Flightlines/Aircraft Specialty...Steve did my FWF hoses in Aug. Airplane was down for condition so I just removed my old ones and shipped them to duplicate. It was $500-600 total (teflon with fire sleeve) but I'll never need to change them again.

The hoses at automotive stores may have different degrees on the flare (SAE, 45 degrees), AN fittings are 37 degrees and therefore not compatible.
 
Yes and no...
Mine is 25 yrs and 1300TT.......running well.
Just be aware of the facts and maintain accordingly.
I pretty much think the 12 yr recommendation is for soft parts getting hard.
So change them when you get a chance...
example: oil drain back tubes from valve covers
intake tube connectors and clamps
intake tube gaskets at the head.
valve cover gaskets
nose seals, if they start leaking.
Mags and ignition wires as they wearout.
Fuel lines every 5 yrs unless they are the permenant ones.
You get the picture....
ohh and fly as often as you can....the engines love to run.
The above is my opinion, others can chime in too.

Where does one obtain the "oil drain back tubes from valve covers, intake tube connectors and clamps, intake tube gaskets at the head and valve cover gaskets for a Lycoming IO 360 M1B? Any ideas?
 
Where does one obtain the "oil drain back tubes from valve covers, intake tube connectors and clamps, intake tube gaskets at the head and valve cover gaskets for a Lycoming IO 360 M1B? Any ideas?

Look for the parts manual of your engine (google will help) and once you get the part numbers it gets easy.

Aitor
 
Where does one obtain the "oil drain back tubes from valve covers, intake tube connectors and clamps, intake tube gaskets at the head and valve cover gaskets for a Lycoming IO 360 M1B? Any ideas?

Aircraft Specialties in Tulsa has just about any part you need - once you look up the part number.
 
If you have a csp, the area of the crankshaft around the prop hub is hollow. This is where oil is collected to control the pitch changes of the prop blades. This oil stays there and is not changed with an engine oil change. It can/does get gunked up in that area. If you have a fixed pitch prop, not a concern. If you have a csp, just clean it out when you replace your alternator belt.

Sorry for the thread drift....
Lycoming Service Bulletin 505B describes the process. All O-320's many O-360's (A1A's are included) require the inspection unless the crank flange diameter is stamped with PID. The issue is with fixed props. CS props have oil movement through the hollow crank. FP have a plug in the end of crank and no oil movement. The unpainted hollow crank is subject to pitting caused by stagnant oil and impurities that can collect there. This pitting may result in a crack and crank failure. The bulletin does not apply if running CS props.

See if this link works.
https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/Inspection of Crankshaft ID for Corrosion.pdf
 
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