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Suggestions on how to repair this FG damage

Bubblehead

Well Known Member
This was a damaged area before I bought the plane 10 years ago. I don't know why I've not tackled it sooner, but I've decided now is the time.

The overlap between the windshield and the canopy is cracked on the right side and I'm not sure how to repair it. I am pretty good with fiberglass and epoxy after having built most of the air frame of a Long EZ so I'm not afraid of tacking this but I'd like to learn from others before tackling this.

Here is a picture. How would you tackle this?

damage%20to%20canopy%20area-M.jpg
 
I would put some tape over the moving part (electrical or plastic tape) then do a layup over the damaged non-moving area. Then fill and sand smooth and open the canopy and trim the edge.
 
First you need to address the damaged area by grinding away some of the damage to get clean edges and create a scarfed edge, at least partially, for the new fg to adhere to.
Then cover the surrounding area to keep the new resin off the surrounding areas. I like to use Saran Wrap or that static cling plastic movers use to wrap couches on the flat areas and then tape where necessary. Electrical tape is good against an area where you will be sanding. Packing tape is good too but leaves a hard to clean residue behind.
Close the canopy. If you want to create a slight space for the canopy to slide in and out, lay up a layer or two of tape on the skirt before you do the repair.
Fill the area with flox and try to get it as close to the final shape as possible. You can use tape to create a dam on the bottom edge to help prevent sag during cure and to catch runs. Old credit cards/ gift cards make good squeegees.
Sand to shape. You nay need to do this a second time to get best results.
Good luck
 
I would put several coats of wax on the tape. Nothing more scary as not being able to get the parts separated after it all cures!
 
Lots of good ideas and most along the lines of what I was thinking. I thought Flox would be the right way to fill it all in but sanding it down afterwards could be a bear. Maybe if I make a plastic overlay sheet to give me a net-near final shape I could reduce the sanding. Fill the final little bit with microballoons.

The part that concerns me about using tape on the sliding portion of the canopy is it could pull paint up with it. I might try using heavy plastic sheet and taping it down with painters tape.

The pipe wrap tape is a new idea. I've used packaging tape before with pretty good results, and like Mike says, a little wax for a mold release makes sense. There is a home depot on the way home so I'll stop and check it out tonight.

Thanks for the responses.
 
...

The part that concerns me about using tape on the sliding portion of the canopy is it could pull paint up with it. I might try using heavy plastic sheet and taping it down with painters tape.

....Thanks for the responses.

Since you want some thickness in this area, just mask all of the painted surfaces with blue tape first, and then use whatever on top of the blue tape.

I've also used the Home Depot thick pipe wrap tape and it does work well as a release film, even on the sticky side. I've used it on the underside of parts to bridge gaps and form a molding surface when modifying/repairing FG.
 
I use the pipe wrap tape on the canopy for protection. No residue issues. I have never had it pull paint off, but test yourself. You can use it almost like pin stripe tape in that it shapes around corners.
 
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