Factory primer wiping off (quick build)

[HackDog]

Have a newer quick build from Brazil. Has anyone had issues with the primer wiping off? All I have used has been alcohol and a microfiber towel. Any suggestions would help, because i would like to paint in interior before I go any further with the build.

 

[georgemohr]

Alcohol will attack many primers. Not sure about the one Vans uses, but its not a surprise if so.

 

[Isaac]

Have a newer quick build from Brazil. Has anyone had issues with the primer wiping off? All I have used has been alcohol and a microfiber towel. Any suggestions would help, because i would like to paint in interior before I go any further with the build.

Have a newer quick build from Brazil. Has anyone had issues with the primer wiping off? All I have used has been alcohol and a microfiber towel. Any suggestions would help, because i would like to paint in interior before I go any further with the build.

That is normal for the “wash primer” that Vans uses. I built a RV6 QB 2002 circa and it was the same back then also. You can clean with soap and water and then top coat the Vans interior primer and the top coat will adhere nicely. If you want bullet proof interior primer you should use a 2 part epoxy primer like AKZO or Super Koropon or DP40.

 

[JonJay]

Do not use alcohol. Alcohol is one of the ingredients of P60G and, as such, would likely strip the primer.
Vans used to coat the QB’s with a light coat of oil prior to shipment that needs to be cleaned off if you’re going to prime or top coat over it. Clean with a good degreaser/wax remover like Kleen Strip Prep-All or diluted Dawn Dish Soap.
P60G is only put on a few mils thick so I am not surprised alcohol rubs it off. However, the aluminum is still etched and you should be fine.
I top coated over p60G with good results after roughing up gently with Scotchbrite. However, two part epoxy systems will provide the maximum adhesion with a slight penalty in weight.
All priming and top coating does is improve levels of protection. Whether to what degree, or not at all, is what primer wars are about…..

 

[HackDog]

Thank you folks for getting back to me so quickly. But, I would like to clarify what I wrote earlier. In legal documents, it was stated that the Brazilians used a subpar product for priming the quick build parks. I used the P60 with great results. When I prep the parts for paint, I wipe them down with alcohol and microfiber towels. Nothing rubs off. (See first photo). The second photo is the product from Brazil.
Because I’m such a noob at the paint thing I would like to get right the first time.
1. Clean the parts that were already painted
2. Spray over with P60
3. Paint with primer
4. Final paint (JetFlex water reducible paint)

My confusion with the process, it that I was under impression that the P60 was the primer.

Do not use alcohol. Alcohol is one of the ingredients of P60G and, as such, would likely strip the primer.
Vans used to coat the QB’s with a light coat of oil prior to shipment that needs to be cleaned off if you’re going to prime or top coat over it. Clean with a good degreaser/wax remover like Kleen Strip Prep-All or diluted Dawn Dish Soap.
P60G is only put on a few mils thick so I am not surprised alcohol rubs it off. However, the aluminum is still etched and you should be fine.
I top coated over p60G with good results after roughing up gently with Scotchbrite. However, two part epoxy systems will provide the maximum adhesion with a slight penalty in weight.
All priming and top coating does is improve levels of protection. Whether to what degree, or not at all, is what primer wars are about…..

Politics, religion, Bar-B-que, 9mm vs. .45, and priming. Things get heated.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

Thank you folks for getting back to me so quickly. But, I would like to clarify what I wrote earlier. In legal documents, it was stated that the Brazilians used a subpar product for priming the quick build parks. I used the P60 with great results. When I prep the parts for paint, I wipe them down with alcohol and microfiber towels. Nothing rubs off. (See first photo). The second photo is the product from Brazil.
Because I’m such a noob at the paint thing I would like to get right the first time.
1. Clean the parts that were already painted
2. Spray over with P60
3. Paint with primer
4. Final paint (JetFlex water reducible paint)

My confusion with the process, it that I was under impression that the P60 was the primer.

Politics, religion, Bar-B-que, 9mm vs. .45, and priming. Things get heated.

Actually, previously published information was that the Philippines quick build contractor used an inferior primer. I don’t think the Brazil facility has ever used a version of P60G2.

 

[CF86301]

I had the same experience with 80% isopropyl alcohol easily removing the green primer from my Made-In-Philippines QB fuse. (The advice I got from a Van's tech support person was to touch up the area with an acid-etching primer.) And when the Philippines contractor applied oil to the outside of the QB fuse, some of it bled or was oversprayed inside onto the primer. I found that Dupli-Color Wax and Grease Remover, CM543, removes the oil but not the primer. It is a soy-based product, I think. Doesn't stink to high heaven, either, and easy on the hands (wear gloves anyway). Found it for $12/qt at an auto supply house (O'RAP).

A wise man (guy) in a certain town about 65 miles NW of Phoenix, AZ told me they can probably topcoat that cheesy primer and stand by the result if it passes the aluminum tape ripoff test and you scuff the primer thoroughly. My sample did pass the aluminum tape ripoff test. But a lot of it depends on the chemical compatibility between the primer and the topcoat. About that, I have no idea/clue/knowledge.