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E-Mag wiring harness

claycookiemonster

Well Known Member
Wiring up the Emag harnesses. They are the sort with tiny screws to hold the wires in place. The wires are 20-22ga. It's almost impossible to tighten them enough to hold those tiny wires without squashing them. No doubt they'll be shaken around quite a bit. Seems a bit insufficient, but those are the connectors provided by EMag. Has anyone done anything to keep those leads secure other than cranking on the screws?
 
Wiring up the Emag harnesses. They are the sort with tiny screws to hold the wires in place. The wires are 20-22ga. It's almost impossible to tighten them enough to hold those tiny wires without squashing them. No doubt they'll be shaken around quite a bit. Seems a bit insufficient, but those are the connectors provided by EMag. Has anyone done anything to keep those leads secure other than cranking on the screws?

The weak link (IMHO) of the PMag solution is the green header/wire binding post.

If you look on Mouser/Digikey/etc. for wire terminations you can find crimp-on, wire terminations designed for the green header affair.

Edit - Green Header --> Phoenix Contact
 
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Wiring up the Emag harnesses. They are the sort with tiny screws to hold the wires in place. The wires are 20-22ga. It's almost impossible to tighten them enough to hold those tiny wires without squashing them. No doubt they'll be shaken around quite a bit. Seems a bit insufficient, but those are the connectors provided by EMag. Has anyone done anything to keep those leads secure other than cranking on the screws?

Wire ferrules work well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h8CHAVmpPFw&t=1s
 
Well, I never!
Like Amazon needs more of my $$$.
Okay, ferrule kit ordered, another tool to rattle around in my drawer of electrical stuff, and more secure EMag harnesses.
Thanks!
 
Or, just use #18 wire for such firewall forward applications. You don’t need the higher current capability but the larger gauge is more robust.

Carl
 
Just in case you have this problem: In my harness from Stein, there was a small shielded wire that provides the rpm to the G3x. To connect to the pmag you must remove the outer covering, then the tiny(er) jacket to expose the very tiny wire that connects to the pmag plug. If you don’t remove the inner jacket, you won’t get rpm. Ask me how I know. :rolleyes:
 
850 hours now on my pmags with the unmodified harness. It works just fine as is when supported by the supplied adel clamps.
 
I experienced issues with the green PMag harness causing my.units to not consistently enter set mode for timing. Someone on this site suggested using ferrule connectors. I ordered a kit from Amazon. The ferrule connectors definitely tighten up the wiring on the PMag harness. I recommend this solution.
 
It's almost impossible to tighten them enough to hold those tiny wires without squashing them. [...] Has anyone done anything to keep those leads secure other than cranking on the screws?
I crank down pretty tight. I'm not sure what you mean by "squashing" the wire - that's kind of what you need to do to make them secure. It's pretty hard to get so much that they would break (or, that's my experience anyway).
850 hours now on my pmags with the unmodified harness. It works just fine as is when supported by the supplied adel clamps.
Me, similar. You definitely need to make sure the wire bundle is supported to prevent strain at the connector. I'm not saying this is the best connector around but it seems to work okay when installed as intended. That said, those ferrules look pretty neat.
 

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850 hours now on my pmags with the unmodified harness. It works just fine as is when supported by the supplied adel clamps.

Right behind you. 839hrs on my dual pMag installation with an unmodified harness and the adel clamps. Works just like E-mags claim they do. :cool:
 
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P Mags 114's

PMags service.
Questions guys.....
I have my hangar mates RV-6...0360, CS prop 2-Pmags installed that I installed and have been keeping up for a few years.

I keep seeing posts from guys with lots of uneventful hours on them.
I wonder if they maintain them by the posted schedule per Emag as I seem to get maintenance induced maintenance. Always my fault eventually.

Book says remove Pmag each annual, and ohm the wires. Well, I unbolt the mag and hold it in my hand while checking the shaft play and then slip a new gasket on and reinstall the Pmag....retime etc. Pretty sure this "handling" of the mags contributed to the tiny wires coming loose, which lead me to this thread. Thinking I should remove the wiring block next time and add checking the wire connections to the condition inspection list. But this action could induce more wear to seemingly not so robust part too.
I too have ordered a ferrule crimping kit, seems like a great idea.

I popped the wires off the pmags after labeling them and Ohm'd them and somehow put them back wrong.......clearly my fault.

I use wire separation devises, but somehow, a set under the James plenum popped off and rubbed each other until a misfire happened.

My RV6 which has 2 slicks just get a timing check and plug cleaning and testing.......with 500 hour inspections too...but no owner induced maintenance. So, is it just me working through a learning curve or are you other guys sharper than I am?
 
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