kirkbauer

Active Member
I'm planning out the electrical for my RV10 and I have never flown a plane with a yaw damper. I noticed that the GAD 27 has inputs for pitch, roll, and yaw trim. I expect I'll connect my pitch and roll trim servos to their associated autopilot servos (GSA 28s). I'll be controlling the autopilot primarily from my G3X Touch display and the GMC 507 controller.

My current RV10 has rudder trim under the panel and that seems sufficient, but I'm installing the yaw damper for passenger comfort in my future RV10. I'm not clear if I still need rudder trim if I have a servo for a yaw damper. I don't plan to install any sort of electric trim for the rudder, so I assume I don't need to use the yam trim inputs into the GAD 27.

Perhaps a dumb question, but I'm not sure on the mechanics of autopilot and trim on that axis and want to make sure I understand it correctly.
 
I'm planning out the electrical for my RV10 and I have never flown a plane with a yaw damper. I noticed that the GAD 27 has inputs for pitch, roll, and yaw trim. I expect I'll connect my pitch and roll trim servos to their associated autopilot servos (GSA 28s). I'll be controlling the autopilot primarily from my G3X Touch display and the GMC 507 controller.

My current RV10 has rudder trim under the panel and that seems sufficient, but I'm installing the yaw damper for passenger comfort in my future RV10. I'm not clear if I still need rudder trim if I have a servo for a yaw damper. I don't plan to install any sort of electric trim for the rudder, so I assume I don't need to use the yam trim inputs into the GAD 27.

Perhaps a dumb question, but I'm not sure on the mechanics of autopilot and trim on that axis and want to make sure I understand it correctly.
Yaw damper seems to be able to add ~ 1/4 ball offset. The only time I need more than that is departure 1,000 fpm and just rest my foot on the rudder pedal till I get to altitude so 3 to 10 mins. You could add electric trim if you want to manually add the needed rudder trim but then you need to add electric trim and then remove the trim at altitude. I found it easier to just rest my foot on the rudder pedal for up to 10 mins and avoid the cost to add electric trim and the time to manually add and then remove. 10 flying soon will have the same system. (Climb out at 500 fpm the yaw damper is enough) My passengers (wife) can tell right away when I don't have the YD activated. In Florida turbulence really a nice feature.
 
I'm planning out the electrical for my RV10 and I have never flown a plane with a yaw damper. I noticed that the GAD 27 has inputs for pitch, roll, and yaw trim. I expect I'll connect my pitch and roll trim servos to their associated autopilot servos (GSA 28s). I'll be controlling the autopilot primarily from my G3X Touch display and the GMC 507 controller.

My current RV10 has rudder trim under the panel and that seems sufficient, but I'm installing the yaw damper for passenger comfort in my future RV10. I'm not clear if I still need rudder trim if I have a servo for a yaw damper. I don't plan to install any sort of electric trim for the rudder, so I assume I don't need to use the yam trim inputs into the GAD 27.

Perhaps a dumb question, but I'm not sure on the mechanics of autopilot and trim on that axis and want to make sure I understand it correctly.
The yaw damper is NOT for trim (though some people use it as such). In fact, it specifically states that in the Garmin install manual.

The yaw damper is designed to counter TRANSIENT yaw excursions. The rudder trim is to counter long term effects, such as holding right rudder in a climb.

The answer then, is to use the trim to remove rudder control pressure requirements and then use the yaw damper to counter any transients caused by turbulence, etc.

All that said, I have found that in my -10, once the correct rudder trim was achieved, the yaw damper works really well...and I typically do not move the rudder trim much, if at all. The YD really makes a difference for the passengers in the -10.