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Custom-built wood tailwheel lift

Sam Buchanan

been here awhile
There was a good thread recently about how to raise the tailwheel for maintennce and the formerly available Tail-Mate was part of the discussion. I fully intended to fabricate a copy of the steel Tail-Mate but decided to first whip together a wood version out of scraps in the shop. I moved it to the hangar today and made its first flight and the thing works incredible well.

tail-lift-1-small.jpg


tail-lift-2-small.jpg


Why didn't I do this twenty years ago??

A couple of notes:

The eye-bolt inserted into a hole in the ramp is a 'safety' in case the winch slips. There is also a 3/8" bolt that is inserted through the dolly that secures the tailwheel after it is rolled onto the dolly. The winch is the cheapest boat trailer winch I could find on that huge auction site.
 
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Sam, you're a genius. And a liar. "Just whipped it together from scraps"....yeah, sure buddy, we believe you ;)
 
Sam,

Can we plan on plans, or at least a few dimensions? Im not in a hurry, so if you want a bit more time for phase I that might be okay.

Looks good to me, thanks for the pictures!

Jim
 
Sam,

Can we plan on plans, or at least a few dimensions? Im not in a hurry, so if you want a bit more time for phase I that might be okay.

Looks good to me, thanks for the pictures!

Jim

Jim, I see a couple of areas that you can improve with your build. If the lower end of the ramp 2x4 is extended a bit farther from the rear upright (increased angle) you will have more clearance from the rudder. Also, while looking at the photos I wonder why I didn't put a bolt at the base of the rear upright to tie everything together a bit more than just the drywall screws. I'll probably remove the center screw in that group of five and put a bolt in its place. Yes, over engineering, but....why not. :)

Total height is ~40" which is more than enough to bring the longerons of the RV-6 past level. The dolly slide is merely wood-on-wood and works very smoothly with no lube/wax needed. There are 3/16" spacers under the dolly sides to prevent it from pinching the ramp.

No primer or sikaflex was needed...guess you could consider this thing a 'slider'.... ;)

Hope this helps.
 
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Me too!

Finished mine a few nights ago. As usual, mine is overbuilt. More like a medieval siege engine.
 

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Safety Pin

Don’t forget the Safety Pin or something similar as Sam has included in his design.
 
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Beats my method of grabbing the tail spring and lifting it up and setting it on a chair

Bob burns
Rv-4 n82rb
 
Beats my method of grabbing the tail spring and lifting it up and setting it on a chair

Bob burns
Rv-4 n82rb

Bob, that is basically what I have done for the past twenty years. But the RV-6 tail just seems to be getting heavier each year and I don't seem to recover from pulled muscles as quickly as I did a decade or so ago....could be my perspective changed about the time my sociable security checks started arriving... ;)
 
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Bob, that is basically what I have done for the past twenty years. But the RV-6 tail just seems to be getting heavier each year and I don't seem to recover from pulled muscles as quickly as I did a decade or so ago....could be my perspective changed about the time my sociable security checks started arriving... ;)

just poking a little fun at you, i know exactly how you feel. im in the same boat. i really like your idea it amazes me the solutions vaf members come up with.

bob burns
RV-4 N82RB
 
...I fully intended to fabricate a copy of the steel Tail-Mate but decided to first whip together a wood version out of scraps in the shop...
So two questions:

1. Now that you have that built, why would you bother making a steel one (unless you just want to do some welding...)?

2. What are people raising the tail for "for maintenance" so often that they need a hoist? I think the only times i've raised my tail have been when I did the initial W&B, and to work on the tailwheel itself (in which case, having it trapped in a hoist wouldn't have helped...). I'm wondering what i've missed, and is there something I need to add to my maintenance schedule?
 
So two questions:

1. Now that you have that built, why would you bother making a steel one (unless you just want to do some welding...)?

2. What are people raising the tail for "for maintenance" so often that they need a hoist? I think the only times i've raised my tail have been when I did the initial W&B, and to work on the tailwheel itself (in which case, having it trapped in a hoist wouldn't have helped...). I'm wondering what i've missed, and is there something I need to add to my maintenance schedule?

I find it's a lot easier to work on the FWF with it level.

Bob burns
Rv-4 n82rb
 
So two questions:

1. Now that you have that built, why would you bother making a steel one (unless you just want to do some welding...)?

2. What are people raising the tail for "for maintenance" so often that they need a hoist? I think the only times i've raised my tail have been when I did the initial W&B, and to work on the tailwheel itself (in which case, having it trapped in a hoist wouldn't have helped...). I'm wondering what i've missed, and is there something I need to add to my maintenance schedule?

I don't see any need to fabricate a steel version now, the wood tail lift will meet my needs very nicely.

I like to raise the tail for oil changes, seems to result in more complete drainage of the sump. As others have noted, it also makes it easier to work on firewall forward during condition inspection.

Another condition inspection item is servicing the tailwheel which is easily accomplished by sliding a saw horse under the tail spring after the lift has hoisted it.

It's a personal thing, many may not see the need for a tail lift but I like having one.
 
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Don't forget the HS rib inspection and peering into the aft fuselage inspection openings.
 
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If you jack your plane at the wing tie downs, you should raise the tail to keep the jack bolts from side loading. You should also weight the tail to keep it from "flying".

Sam - great job as always. A couple ideas to throw into the mix.....
If I was designing a "tail-mate" from scratch, I would add a provision to lock the tailwheel into the cradle and provide a platform to set weights, concrete filled bucket, saddle weights, whatever to keep the tail and lift from trying to fly.
I have a tail-mate and I just strap the tail wheel to the cradle and set weights on a small piece of plywood set on the bottom of the unit once the tail is raised a bit. It isn't a big deal, but while we are talking tail lifts....
 
Sam - great job as always. A couple ideas to throw into the mix.....
If I was designing a "tail-mate" from scratch, I would add a provision to lock the tailwheel into the cradle and provide a platform to set weights, concrete filled bucket, saddle weights, whatever to keep the tail and lift from trying to fly.
I have a tail-mate and I just strap the tail wheel to the cradle and set weights on a small piece of plywood set on the bottom of the unit once the tail is raised a bit. It isn't a big deal, but while we are talking tail lifts....

Those are good points. The CG on my RV-6 is more aft than forward so there is still quite a bit of weight on the tailwheel with the longerons level. But I wouldn't raise it past that point because the tail would get light very quickly. A plane with a CS prop and large engine would most likely need to be secured as you suggested.
 
Ok show offs, now a question, why build a metal one it just looks, well like nothing and works no better than the wood ones.

I want to see the next step those of you who built them take in decorating them. Know its coming soon, brass bolts and screws? Paint or stain? Oak plywood or some other very nice looking wood.

Have seen many of your master pieces on here with wings, ok lets see the next step, finished.

Boyd in Chiloquin
 
I want to see the next step those of you who built them take in decorating them. Know its coming soon, brass bolts and screws? Paint or stain? Oak plywood or some other very nice looking wood.
Wait a little bit and i'm sure someone will vinyl wrap one of them... But they'll have to prime it first.
 
Wait a little bit and i'm sure someone will vinyl wrap one of them... But they'll have to prime it first.

You beat me to it, Snowflake. Can't wait to see one in "Teak" or "Carbon Fiber". Who'll be the first. On your mark; Get set; Go!
 
Isnt this a forum for building metal airplanes?
What's with the wood? 8^)
Me thinks someone has "gottabuildwithwood-itis".


OK now, back to making more aluminum dust!
 
One advantage of the motorcycle lift might be that you can put a scale on top of it and raise the tail in order to weigh the plane.
 
Isnt this a forum for building metal airplanes?
What's with the wood? 8^)
Me thinks someone has "gottabuildwithwood-itis".


OK now, back to making more aluminum dust!

The older members of these forums will remember the days when wood jigs were required for empennage, wings and fuselage for ALL RV?s available at that time. Pre-punched parts did away with the wood jigs which were often handed down from builder to builder.
 
There was a good thread recently about how to raise the tailwheel for maintennce and the formerly available Tail-Mate was part of the discussion. I fully intended to fabricate a copy of the steel Tail-Mate but decided to first whip together a wood version out of scraps in the shop. I moved it to the hangar today and made its first flight and the thing works incredible well.


Why didn't I do this twenty years ago??

A couple of notes:

The eye-bolt inserted into a hole in the ramp is a 'safety' in case the winch slips. There is also a 3/8" bolt that is inserted through the dolly that secures the tailwheel after it is rolled onto the dolly. The winch is the cheapest boat trailer winch I could find on that huge auction site.

Sam, any chance you will be able to supply us with some measurements? Thanks.
 
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